Cambric (Chap. I, Par. 6), or
Long Cloth (Chap. I, Par. 24) or
Nainsook (Chap. I, Par. 28).
About 1 yard of cambric.
About 2 1/2 yards of embroidery beading.
Thread No. 70.
1 hook and eye, or 3 buttons.
2 1/2 yards lingerie tape.
The corset cover, as its name implies, is primarily worn to protect the corset; it also serves to improve the appearance of the outside waist. There is practically no end to the styles in corset covers; in fact, there are almost as many as there are women to wear them, but in the end they all serve the purpose named above whether they are made of beautiful lace flouncing, embroidery flouncing, lace trimmed nainsook, lawn, hand embroidered linen or delicate shades of crepe de Chine.
The corset cover shown in this lesson is designed for service and for that reason is made of substantial cotton material consisting merely of long cloth trimmed with a simple edge of embroidery through which tape or ribbon is run to draw up the fullness at the top. It is cut after a pattern which makes but few gathers necessary in the band at the waist line; this is very desirable, as it gives plenty of fullness at the top without the bulging, clumsy appearance at the band. It is desirable to attach a peplum to keep the corset cover from slipping up and leaving a gap at the waist line; if preferred it may be attached to a pair of drawers thus forming a combination suit
Household Arts, Bulletin Missouri State Board of Agriculture.
The Modern Household, Talbot and Breckenridge. Manual Arts Press.
No. 1. This corset cover is made like the one shown in the illustration, except that the fullness at the top is gathered in and finished with bias tape. The neck and armholes are trimmed with tatting. It is a very plain serviceable garment.
No. 4. The hand crocheted yoke which finishes the top of this corset cover makes it very effective when worn under a thin waist. There is almost no limit to the application of fine handwork which may be used in this garment.
Shrink the material.
. A commercial pattern may be used for this corset cover, or you may draft your own pattern according to directions in Chapter IV (Patterns And Pattern Drafting). If a commercial pattern is used, study carefully the guide chart and directions accompanying it.
As the two pieces forming the front should be cut out together, fold the material lengthwise to form a double strip as wide as the front of the pattern. Lay the edge of the center front of the pattern even with the unfolded edges of the goods, pin it in place and cut out the fronts. To cut out the back for which you have a half pattern, fold the remaining material lengthwise to form a double strip as wide as the back pattern. Lay the center back of the pattern on the fold of the material, pin it in place and cut it out. Cut out the peplum, laying the center back of the peplum on the warp thread of the goods. Tear out, or cut off a strip 3" wide, the length of the waist measure, plus 2" for under turnings and lapping.
This corset cover may be joined with felled or French seams (Chap. II, Par. 137-138). With this in mind, baste together the underarm and shoulder seams of the corset cover. Baste the peplum together in the back, if necessary. Try on the corset cover; make any alterations necessary. If it is too low in the neck or too full in the lower curve of the armhole take up the shoulder seam; if it is too loose under the arms take up the under-arm seams. Pin a tape or a strip of cloth around the waist over the bottom of the corset cover, adjust the fullness and mark the waist line with pins or trim off the extra material with the shears.
Rebaste on the line of fitting; finish the seams. Remove bastings.
Gather the corset cover across the lower edge of the back about 2 1/2" inside of the under-arm seams (Chap. II, Par. 141), draw up the gathers to make the back 9" or 10" wide; about 2 1/2" from the underarm seam gather across the lower edge of the front pieces and draw up the gathering thread until the bottom of the corset cover is the same size as the waist measure, plus 1" extra for lapping at the front.
Lay it on the under side of the corset cover with the center even with the center back, and the edge even with the gathered edge of the corset cover. Pin and baste in place (be careful to turn in the ends of the band 1/2" making them exactly even with the front edges of the corset cover). Adjust the gathers, pin and baste the band to the corset cover. Stitch along the line of basting; remove bastings and gathering threads. Turn in the raw edge on the other side of the band and fold it over to cover the stitching; pin and baste in place. Remove pins. Cut open the lower edge of the band to receive the peplum. Turn in the raw edges and crease them.
Finish the lower and front edges of the peplum with a narrow hem. With the center backs of the peplum and the band together place the wrong side of the peplum on the under side of the band, with the edges even; pin and baste in place; remove the pins and stitch. Turning in the edge of this seam fold over the edge of the upper part of the band enough to cover the stitching; pin, baste and stitch in place. (Both sides of the band should be perfectly smooth.)
The embroidery beading should be sewed around the neck and armholes with a lapped seam (Chap. II, Par. 139). To keep the seams smooth, make tiny crosswise cuts in the underturned edges around the curves. Finish the ends of the embroidery on the neck with narrow hems; join the ends in the armholes with felled seams (Chap. II, Par. 138). Run ribbon through the beading.
Fasten the corset cover together with snaps on the front hems and a hook and eye on the band (Chap. II, Par. 133) or with buttons and buttonholes on the hems and also the band (Chap. II, Par. 135-136).