Ticking (Chap. I, Par. 34; or
Gingham (Chap. I, Par. 19).
1 yard ticking or gingham. 30" bias tape 3/8" wide. Thread No. 70. Needle No. 8.
Wash day at its best represents a great deal of hard work, even though modern inventions have done much to relieve the housewife of some of the drudgery. While the laundries are supplied with regular driers in which the clothes are hung and dried very quickly with hot air, there is nothing that quite takes the place of sunshine and fresh air in drying clothes, and in the average home the clothes are still hung out of doors on the line where they are thoroughly sweetened with nature's great disinfectants, sunshine and fresh air.
When clothes are hung out of doors they must be fastened to the line with clothes pins. To save stooping to the clothes basket each time clothes pins are needed, a clothes pin bag of some sort is usually hung over the shoulders or tied around the waist. This bag should be made of some firm material, such as ticking, denim or galatea cloth.
While the clothes pin bag does not offer much opportunity for originality in design, yet the clothes pin apron shown in this lesson has some advantages; it can be tied around the waist, will remain open sufficiently to allow easy access to the clothes pins, and will also afford some protection to the clothing.
Laundry Work, Shepperd. Webb Publishing Co., St. Paul. House Sanitation, Talbot. Manual Arts Press.
No. 1. This model is made very similar to the one described in this lesson. The strap which is to be hung over the shoulders is substituted for the band which ties around the waist.
No. 2. This apron is also made very much like the one shown in the lesson, the pockets are rounded out at the corners. The outside edge is bound with bias tape the same as that used in binding the pockets.
No. 3. This is an ordinary bag gathered at the top to fit a pair of embroidery hoops about 6" in diameter. It should be hung over the shoulders with cable cord.
No. 4. This apron is made from a straight strip of material the same width as the shoulders. A round hole is cut for the neck. One end forms the back and is gathered into a band; the other end forms the front and receives the pocket.
This apron is to be made from one strip of ticking one yard long by 21" wide. Straighten one end of the material (Chap. II, Par. 102). Measure down one long edge 36" (one yard), the length of the apron and pocket. Tear crosswise, or, draw a thread crosswise and cut on the line. Tear off a strip 2 1/2" wide lengthwise of the material (this is to be used for the band). On one end of the material measure out 21", the width of the apron; tear lengthwise, or cut on a thread or stripe of the material.
This apron is to be made by cutting a curved piece out of one end, finishing this with bias tape, and folding it up even with the other end to form the pocket for the clothes pins. To cut out the curve, fold the material with the long edges even, crease on the fold formed in the center. To mark the top of the curve, measure out from the fold on one end 7 1/2"; mark with a pin. On the same end, to mark the bottom of the curve, measure down on the fold 81/2"; mark with a pin. Connect the points marked with pins with a curved line similar to the one shown in the illustration. Cut on the line through both thicknesses of the material. To finish the raw edge of the curve, fold it over about 1/4"; baste with uneven basting (Chap. II, Par. 104); keeping the edges even baste a strip of bias tape over the folded edge, stretching it around the curve where necessary to keep it smooth; stitch on both edges with the sewing machine (Chap. II, Par. 164). Remove bastings.
With the bias tape turned inside, fold this curved out end up to the opposite one, making the straight edges even (you will notice about 2" on each side of this end are left straight). The fold will form the bottom of the apron. Round the corners of the folded edge, as in the illustration. Baste the edges along the sides and bottom together with uneven basting (Chap. II, Par. 104) and stitch in a 1/4" seam with the sewing machine (Chap. II, Par. 164). Remove the bastings, turn the apron right side out and stitch near the edge again on the right side. Divide the pocket into two parts by stitching it to the back of the apron on the center crease.
To make it fit the curve of the waist at the waist line it is necessary to hollow, or curve the front of an apron slightly. To do this, measure down on the center crease of the apron 1/2" from the top. Mark with a pin, fold the apron on the center crease and, beginning where the curved edge of the pocket joins the apron, cut a slightly curved line (through both thicknesses) to the point marked with the pin. As the apron is to be gathered onto the band slightly to make it set neatly, begin 2" from each side of the center and gather the top of the apron (Chap. II, Par. 141). Draw the gathers tight enough to make each half of the apron 8" across the top.
Use the strip 36" long and 2 1/2" wide for the band. This band is to be made long enough to tie in the back.
To sew it on, first mark the center by folding the two ends together and creasing on the fold. With this center crease placed on the center crease of the apron, sew and baste one edge of the band to the top edge of the apron, turning the seam toward the right side. Stitch together with the sewing machine (Chap. II, Par. 164). Turn in the other edge of the band and fold it over just beyond the first stitching; pin, baste carefully in place, and stitch with the sewing machine. Finish the remaining raw edges of the band with a 1/4" hem stitched on the sewing machine. Make two parallel rows of stitching across the band where it begins to join the apron.