1. Do you consider the study of dress an important subject? Why?

2. What is meant by a garment being in style? How much attention do you think should be given to style when planning your clothes?

3. What is the purpose of trimming on a garment?

4. What do you understand by a certain idea or design of dress being appropriate?

5. What sort of trimming would be appropriate for a middy blouse? For a lingerie dress?

6. Why are commercial patterns considered more practicable than drafted ones for ordinary home sewing?

7. What measurements should be taken before undertaking to draft a waist pattern?

8. What do you understand by a "foundation" waist pattern? Why is it worth while for every girl to become familiar with the method of making such a pattern?

10. What points must be carefully considered in altering any pattern? Explain.

11. The ability to alter and adapt patterns to individual needs is the real test of ones understanding of the principles of pattern making. Discuss this statement.

12. What determines the width at the bottom, the number of gores and the style of trimming of a skirt?

13. Name and describe three or four kinds of material suitable for house dresses.

14. Describe the points of a properly designed and well made school dress.

15. What things must be considered in making a wool dress, that would not occur in making a house dress?

16. Design a silk dress. Draw a sketch showing how it will appear when completed.

17. For what occasions is the lingerie dress appropriate?

18. What points should be considered in designing and making a gymnasium suit?

19. What kind of materials are suitable for a coat?

20. Write a review of three or four hundred words explaining just how you can apply at home the things learned in your school sewing work.

Suggestions For Home Application

After having completed the work in Section V of this book you should be able to do a large part of your plain sewing. With the work given in dressmaking in Section VI you should be in a position to make even your more elaborate gowns. When you are capable of making such garments it is very important that you should also be able to use good judgment in selecting appropriate materials and styles for them. A few suggestions are offered to aid you in applying to the problems of dress at home the things which you have learned in your school sewing.

The Clothing Budget

One of the first problems to consider in planning ones wardrobe is the amount of money that can be spent on it. Whether you have a liberal allowance, or whether you must practice strict economy, you will be able to spend your money much more profitably if you use thought and care in planning your clothes for each season. A very excellent plan to follow is the keeping of an accurate account of the expense of your clothing. This will enable you to know just the amount you are spending for your clothes and will enable you to see whether you are spending money without getting the best returns for it. As some garments can be made over, or made to do service for two or three years, you should keep an itemized account of your expenses for clothing for three years and take the average expenses for the three years as the average cost for each year's clothing. In this manner you will be able to see whether too large a proportion of the money spent is being used for articles like fancy neckwear or other fads and luxuries of dress; you may wish to reduce the number of some of these items so that you may have more money to spend for your street clothes, or other garments which will give you a better appearance with the same expenditure of money.

Some Economies In Dress

One very good way of economizing on the cost of dress and still presenting a good appearance is to select a becoming color and use that as the keynote of your dresses, suits and hats from year to year. By using this method very often a well preserved hat left from the previous season may be retrimmed at small expense and used with the new suit or dress; left-over blouses may also be worn with the new suit instead of being discarded because they do not match in color. Where strict economy must be observed in planning the wardrobe, one well made dress of good material may be made to serve for different occasions by using different styles of neckwear. It is said of a very prominent English woman that she used one black dress to do service on all occasions through an entire social season in London, simply changing the neckwear on different occasions.

Unless you have an unlimited income, extremes of fashion should be avoided, as they necessitate an endless renewing of the wardrobe. This makes it necessary to buy cheaper materials, which soon show their shoddiness. Clothing which is more conservative in style and made of better fabrics will attract less attention to itself, and will thus allow the personality of the wearer to predominate. A girl's clothes should emphasize her personality instead of crowding it into insignificance.

If you have the time to make your own clothes, this will be a very important item in economy, as this makes it possible not only to save the dressmakers' bills, but to make over garments from a previous season. If you do not have time to do this, many articles may be purchased ready made. Although the materials used in ready made garments are often inferior to those used in making garments at home, yet many ready made garments, which give very good satisfaction, may be purchased.

A great deal of valuable time and money is often wasted in purposeless shopping. It is a wise plan to know what you want to purchase, about what you can afford to pay, the quantity needed and the purpose for which the material is to be utilized.

At between seasons sales considerable money may be saved if purchases are made thoughtfully. It is poor economy, however, to buy articles simply because they are good value, or because you hope to use them at some future time.

Simplicity Of Dress

The keynote of a young girl's dress should be simplicity, as the' charm and freshness of youth does not need elaborate clothes to enhance it. Any kind of clothing which takes away from a girl's youthful appearance also takes away some of her attractiveness and shows lack of good taste. Some things that a girl in school should avoid are extremely low cut necks in dresses or waists, silk stockings and low shoes in cold weather, too striking combinations of color, huge hair ribbons, or fancy shirt waists.

Appropriateness

A dress that would be very pretty at a party would look out of place in the school room because of its inappropriateness. Proper clothes should be worn on the proper occasion. Lace trimmed gowns made of perishable material are not suitable for school wear. Fabrics which will wear well and launder nicely should be selected for wash dresses and waists for school wear; serviceable materials, like serge or panama should be selected for woolen dresses.

It is not sufficient to use good taste in selection of materials and in the styles of making them up, but care should be taken to keep the clothes in good repair and to see that collars and cuffs are kept clean. In other words, if you would be refined you must show by careful attention to the small details of your dress that you are perfectly and always a lady.

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