Denim (Chap. I, Par. 14).
2/3 yard denim.
1 ruler 12" long or piece of window stick.
14" cotton tape.
1 yard mercerized braid.
White embroidery cotton.
Thread to match denim.
As the laundry work of the household is usually done but once a week, a place should be provided for the soiled clothes which collect during this time. In many houses a laundry chute is provided which carries the clothes to a receptacle in the laundry. If you have no laundry chute, laundry bags, which can be emptied at the end of the week, or on wash day, will be found very convenient.
As the laundry bag will have to sustain considerable weight, it should be made of firm material and should be large enough to hold at least a week's laundry for one person; galatea, cretonne, denim or Indian Head are very satisfactory materials to use.
While a bag with draw strings at the top might be used, it is somewhat inconvenient to open the mouth of such a bag each time you wish to place a soiled garment in it.
The laundry bag shown in this lesson will be found very convenient as the top is always open ready to receive the soiled clothes. The simple design used in ornamenting it is in keeping with the purpose of the bag.
Care of the House, Clark. Whitcomb & Barrows. Laundry Work in Theory and Practice, Marsh.
No. 1. This bag is made with draw strings to close the top. It is made of cretonne and is 18" wide and 27" long.
No. 3. This bag is made of cretonne. One side has a small piece gathered on it to form a pocket for the darning cotton. The other side has a flap sewed on it; under this flap, oblong pieces of outing flannel are fastened for the darning needles. The draw strings are run through ivory rings.
No. 4. This laundry bag is made the same as No. 2 except that it is about twice as large. It is ornamented with a band of filet crocheted insertion.
Straighten one end of the material (Chap. II, Par. 102); measure down on the selvage 24" (the length of the laundry bag); draw a thread crosswise and cut on the line. This bag consists of two pieces, the front and the back; each is made from one-half of this strip of material. To divide the material, fold the selvage edges together evenly; crease on the fold formed and cut on the crease. As the front piece is shorter than the back piece, cut a strip 1 3/4" wide off one end of it.
You will notice in the illustration that the front of the bag is curved out at the top. To do this, fold the front piece in the center, lengthwise; pin it to keep it from slipping. On the fold, measure down from one end 8" (call this the top); mark the point with crayon or a pin, measure in from the unfolded edge on the same end of the material, 2 1/2"; mark with a pin or crayon. With a piece of sharpened crayon connect the two points with an inward curving line; following this line, cut out the curve.
The curved edge is faced with a bias strip 1 1/4" wide. This strip may be cut from the material which was cut out of the curved end of the front. Cut, and if necessary, join several bias strips to make a facing long enough to reach around the curve (Chap. II, Par. 143-144). To sew on the bias facing, let one end extend slightly above the curve; place one edge even with the edge of the curve on the right side of the material and baste it in place with even basting, holding it slightly full around the curve. Turn the facing to the wrong side, baste along the stitched edge, turn under the other raw edge, baste it in place and stitch, or hem by hand. (Stretch it around the curve if necessary to make it lie flat).
Place the right side of the front and the back of the bag together with the straight edges even. Baste and stitch these edges together with a half-inch seam. Overcast the raw edges.
At the top of the bag a casing is to be formed to hold a stick on which the fullness of the bag is adjusted.
Fold the top of the piece toward the front 1 3/4", turn in the raw edge, baste and stitch in place. This casing is simply a wide hem. In order to hold the gathers in place, it is necessary to fasten the ends of the casing to the stick. To do this, cut notches 1/4" deep on the top and bottom edges of the stick 1/2" from each end. Wrap the stick several times with thread in these notches. Fasten the thread securely. Turn under the edge and sew one end of a piece of cotton tape 14" long to the thread in first notch; bring it over both ends of the stick to the other threads wrapped in the notches and sew it securely.
Insert the stick in the casing and overhand the ends of the casing catching the stitches through the tape on the ends of the stick. Adjust the fullness evenly on the stick.
Make a loop at each end of the mercerized tape and sew it to the top corner of the laundry bag to form a hanger, as shown in the illustration.
The letters for the design may be drawn on a piece of paper and transferred to the laundry bag with carbon paper; trace over letters with sharpened crayon. A commercial pattern may be used if desired. If a commercial pattern is used, select one in which the design is stamped in yellow (the yellow design will show more clearly on dark material). Work the letters with the satin stitch (Chap. II, Par. 131).