Nainsook (Chap. I, Par. 28) or
Long Cloth (Chap. I, Par. 24) or
Muslin (Chap. I, Par. 27).
1 piece of Nainsook twice the length of the measurement from shoulder to floor, plus 5" for hems.
Not many years ago, before the manufacture of cotton had reached its present high degree of perfection, girls were very glad to have plain, substantial night gowns made of unbleached muslin in summer and outing flannel in winter. Now, however, most girls take almost as much pride in their night dresses as they do in the selection of their outer garments. Each girl's wardrobe usually contains two kinds of night gowns; some which will stand service and laundering and some lighter ones for special occasions. The kind for service should be made of firm wash material, such as cambric, long cloth, or repplette which is easily cared for because it requires no ironing.
The project given in this lesson is an excellent one to precede dressmaking work in which straight seams are absolutely necessary to give a fine appearance to the garment. The night gown has long seams and gives good practice in machine stitching. The design shown above is made along simple lines with kimono sleeves. If set-in sleeves are preferred, they may be used.
Sewing Club Bulletin, Ex. Division, Kansas State Agricultural College. Suggestions for Sewing Schools, Patterson.
No. 2. This may be made from a kimono night gown pattern by curving it in at the armholes and allowing extra fullness in the front. It is finished at the top with a curved band of all-over embroidery.
No. 3. This illustration shows an elaborate gown with a lace yoke and sleeves. The ribbon is run through long eyelets just below the armholes.
No. 4. This night gown is trimmed with set-in lace insertion and embroidered scallops around the neck and sleeves. The ribbon is run through long eyelets. Such a garment presents an opportunity for the employment of a great deal of beautiful handwork.
Shrink the material by wetting it, partially drying it and ironing it until dry.
Draft a pattern for a kimono night gown (Chap. IV), or, if desired, you may use a commercial pattern. If a commercial pattern is used, study carefully the guide chart and all directions which accompany it. This night gown is made without seams on the shoulders, the back and front being cut alike, hence one-half the pattern for the front of the night gown will be sufficient to use in cutting it out. To prepare the material for cutting, fold it lengthwise in the center, making the selvages even; then fold it crosswise in the center. Lay the straight edge, or center front of the pattern on the lengthwise fold of the goods with the top of the shoulder even with the crosswise fold. Pin it in several places to keep it from slipping. Cut out the night gown (do not cut the cloth at the top of the shoulder or on the center fold); remove the pattern.
The only seams necessary in this garment are the ones under the arms. French seams may be used. To make them, baste the edges of the material together on the right side and follow the directions in Chap. II, Par. 137. To keep the seams from puckering under the arms, make tiny crosswise cuts on the edge of the first seam around the curves.
The neck and sleeves of this night gown are to be finished with lace beading. You may finish the raw edges with narrow hems. Stitch on the sewing machine or hem by hand. Overhand the lace on the edge of the hems. Join the lace as in Chap. II, Par. 148.
If desired, the neck may be finished with bias tape. To sew on this tape, lay the right side of the tape on the wrong side of the material, with one edge even with the edge of the neck. Baste with short stitches along the line of the crease, turn it to the right side, baste it down and stitch on both edges. Overhand the lace on the edge and join it as suggested above.
If embroidered beading is preferred, sew it on the neck and sleeves with a lapped seam (Chap. II, Par. 139). Make tiny crosswise cuts in the turned edges where the seam curves (if this is not done the seam is likely to pucker around the curve).
Have someone even the gown around the bottom (the night gown should just clear the floor). Make the hem about 2" wide. Even it, using a gauge as a guide (a strip of cardboard the width desired for the hem), baste the bottom of the hem even as turned. Turn in the raw edges, pin and baste in place removing the extra fullness at the top of the hem by laying small pleats in it. Sew the hem in place with machine, or with hemming stitches.