Nainsook (Chap. I, Par. 28), or
Cambric (Chap. I, Par. 6), or
Long Cloth (Chap. I, Par. 24).
Nainsook, the amount called for in the pattern.
Thread No. 90.
Snaps or buttons.
Lace beading, the amount called for in pattern.
Ribbon or lingerie tape (about 2 1/2 yards).
Every well groomed woman is very particular to see that outside garments fit without wrinkles and with a glove-like appearance across the hips and back. There is only one way to accomplish this result, and that is to have the under garments without fullness or wrinkles. If there is a tendency towards a large waist in proportion to the size of the hips, all bands around the waist must be fitted to avoid increasing its size. The fitted princess slip has come into use to overcome this difficulty for it is so made that the under skirt and corset cover make a continuous line from the shoulder to the bottom of the skirt.
The trimming for the upper part of the waist may be made as elaborate as desired because the slip takes the place of the regular corset cover. The bottom of the slip may be trimmed with ruffles, with lace, with rows of insertion sewed together to make a flounce, with embroidery, with beading and insertion, or may even be left plain. Young girls who are wearing gathered or pleated skirts often prefer a slip made similar to the slip-over night dress, without sleeves, but this garment is not very satisfactory where smooth fitting skirts are worn on the outside.
The Dressmaker. Butterick Publishing Co., N. Y.
The Sewing Book, Anne Jessup. Butterick Publishing Co., N. Y.
No. 1. This princess slip may be made from the same kind of pattern as the one in the lesson. The upper part is finished with a band of insertion set in with lace; the neck and armholes are finished with lace beading. The band of insertion in the bottom of the skirt is stitched or overhanded to the lace insertion, which is in turn stitched to the material in the princess slip. The material is cut out under the trimming.
No. 2. This shows the back view of a princess slip made very much like the one in the lesson. The hand crocheted yoke makes a handsome trimming for the top of the garment. The yoke is hemmed onto the garment and the material is cut away to about 1/4"; this edge is turned under and hemmed making a very narrow hem.
Shrink the material by wetting it, partially drying it, then ironing it until thoroughly dry.
As the pattern for a princess slip is difficult to draft you are to use a commercial pattern. Carefully study the guide chart and directions which accompany the pattern. If a ruffle is to be set on the bottom edge of the slip, turn up the pattern at the bottom the width of the ruffle you wish to use (always allow at least 2" extra length for making). Cut the strips for the ruffle the desired width, making it one and one-fourth to one and a half times as long as the skirt is wide at the bottom.
Either French or felled seams (Chap. II, Par. 137-138) may be used to join the seams on this garment. With this in mind, baste the seams together, put on the garment and have it fitted, marking the lines of the fitting with pins. The garment may be hung, or evened, at the bottom at this time. Remove the princess slip, baste along the lines of the fitting and finish the seams, leaving an opening at the top of the center front or back seam long enough to allow the garment to slip over the head easily.
Finish the placket opening with an extension placket (Chap. II, Par. 162). To fasten it together, sew about 6 snaps (Chap. II, Par. 133) on the placket or work the same number of buttonholes and sew on small pearl buttons to correspond with them.
Finish the armholes with bias strips of the material cut about 1" wide (Chap. II, Par. 143). (In joining the strips, follow directions in Chap. II, Par. 144), (a fitted facing made a little wider at the bottom than at the top may be used). Overhand lace on the edge of the arm-hole after it is faced (Chap. II, Par. 112), joining the lace carefully as directed in Chap. II, Par. 148.
Make a narrow hem around the curve in the neck and overhand lace beading on the edge. Finish the ends of the lace with narrow hems and run ribbon through them.
Sew the strips of the ruffle together, using plain seams to join the selvage edges and felled seams to join the raw edges. Make a narrow hem on one edge, using the hemmer on the sewing machine; if desired you may baste the hem and stitch it. Divide the bottom of the skirt in four equal parts (this skirt should be cut off even as marked when it was hung). Gather the ruffle and baste it onto the edge as directed in Chap. II, Par. 141 and 142. The raw edges may be finished with a bias tape or French seam. If a French seam is used, there should be two rows of gathering threads in the ruffle so the second row of stitching can be made through the second row of gathers. If bias tape is used, lay it on the right side of the gathers with the edges even, baste in place along the crease; turn it over making it lie flat over the raw edges of the skirt and ruffle; baste it in place and stitch on both edges. Remove bastings.