Curtain material the length of window plus 4 1/2" for hems.
Thread No. 70.
Needle No. 8.
Sash curtains are used to cover the lower sash of windows, usually in the bathroom, kitchen and pantry. They should be made long enough to clear the window casings, rather than to hang below-them. An extra heading about 1" deep may be basted in the curtain when it is made, to provide for shrinkage when the curtain is laundered.
As curtains should soften the light, rather than exclude it, sheer materials should be used in making them; white lawn, cheese cloth, voile and marquisette are the materials commonly used. The latter three are suitable for stenciling. The dotted mulls and embroidered muslins make very pretty curtains and require no further decoration.
The curtain presented in this lesson shows the method ordinarily used in making sash curtains. The heading at the top is used to improve its appearance.
Homes and Their Decoration. French. Whitcomb & Barrows. Home Decoration, Warner. Doubleday, Page & Co.
No. 1. Although the dotted mull makes a pretty sash curtain without further decoration, the row of dots above the hem may be embroidered in colors very effectively with the satin stitch, to form a border across the lower part of the curtain.
No. 2. This is one of a pair of curtains; it is finished with a hemstitched hem on one side and the lower end; the material used is curtain voile.
No. 3. The edges of this dotted mull curtain are finished with narrow hems and colored rickrack. It makes a pretty bathroom curtain.
No. 4. The stenciled border placed above the hem of this curtain makes a very pretty effect.
As curtain material shrinks considerably when laundered, it is advisable to shrink it before making it into curtains. To do this, wet the material thoroughly, hang it straight on the line until partially dried, then iron it dry. Measure the window on which it is to be hung and allow the amount desired for the hems at the top and bottom. If you do not shrink the material, allow 3/4" extra length for shrinkage, 4 1/2" were allowed for hems on the curtain for this lesson.
Straighten one end of the material (Chap. II, Par. 102) and measure down from this end on one selvage the length of the curtain. Draw a thread crosswise and cut on the line. If more than one curtain is to be made, cut out the others in the same manner. (If they are to be hung in pairs or in the same room, be careful to make them exactly the same length).
As the sash curtain is to be made the full width of the material, the selvages may be used to finish the long edges, if desired. If there are to be two sash curtains at the window the inside edges of each curtain may be finished with narrow lace. To finish the edge with lace, cut off the selvage, fold, baste, and stitch a narrow hem in place on the sewing machine. Overhand the lace on this edge (Chap. II, Par. 112), or baste it flat on the edge and stitch it on the sewing machine (Chap. II, Par. 164) (make the top tension a little loose to prevent puckering on the edge), or sew with running stitches. The outside edge may be finished in like manner, if desired.
The long edges can also be finished with hemstitched hems. These may be made l 1/2" wide. To make them, trim off the selvage, and follow the directions for single or double hemstitching (Chap. II, Par. 115 or 116).
The selvages are left on to finish the long edges of the curtain shown in the illustration.
The lower end of the sash curtain is usually finished with a hem about 2" wide. This hem may be stitched on the sewing machine, hemstitched, or finished with featherstitching (Chap. II, Par. 121, 122, 123). If the end of the curtain is finished with rickrack, or lace, the same as the long edges, the hem should be made narrow to correspond with the hems on the edges; the lace or other trimming should be sewed on in a continuous seam around the bottom and adjoining edges. The hem on the curtain shown in the illustration is made 2" wide; it is sewed in place with machine stitching.
The hem at the top of the curtain may be made wide enough to form a casing through which to run the curtain rod (about 1/2" to 3/4" wide). A casing is usually placed in the hem, however; the remainder of the hem is to form a heading. To make the top hem with a casing, fold and baste a hem the width desired at the top of the curtain (2 1/2" is allowed on the curtain in this lesson). If the material has not been shrunk, measure up from the basted edge of the hem the desired width for a temporary casing (3/4"). Make a row of running stitches parallel with the edge of the hem. Measure up 1/2" above this and make a row of machine stitching for the top of a permanent casing parallel with the edge of the hem. Stitch the hem in place, or sew in place with hemming stitches (if the material has been shrunk, make the hem 3/4" narrower and make only one casing).