Paragraph 135. Fasten the thread by taking two or three small stitches on the under side of the material or, if a knot is used, insert the needle about 1/2" away and running it between the thicknesses of cloth bring it up at the place where the button is to be sewed. A button should have a shank of thread under it to raise it from the goods. Such a shank may be made by slipping a pin under the threads and sewing over it in the manner shown in No. 3, Figure 39.
If the button has only two holes as shown in No. 1, Figure 39, bring the needle up through one of them and down through the opposite one, then slipping a pin under the thread continue in the same manner until the holes are filled with thread. If the button has four holes, bring the needle up through one of them, down through the second, up through the third and down through the fourth, slip the pin under the threads as in No. 3, Figure 39, and continue in the same manner until the holes are filled. (Sometimes the stitch is crossed by sewing diagonally from the first to the third hole and from the second to the fourth, but this method is not usually considered as neat as the method shown in No. 2, Figure 39.)
When the button is securely fastened, remove the pin and wrap the thread several times around the loose threads under the button. Fasten the thread by running the needle through to the wrong side and making two or three small stitches, one over the other. Nos. 1 and 2, Figure 39, show a two-holed and four-holed button completely sewed on.
A button with a cotton shank is sewed on by sewing through the shank then through one or two thicknesses of the material, without sewing entirely through the garment. In sewing buttons on tailored garments the thread is not carried entirely through the material. On heavy material where the buttons are to have hard wear, they should be sewed on with coarse thread. The thread is sometimes waxed to make it stronger and to make it lie in the button smoothly.
Shoe buttons are often fastened on with steel fasteners, but sometimes it is necessary to sew them on at home; extra heavy linen thread should be used making an over and over stitch as shown in No. 4, Figure 39.