Paragraph 133. In sewing on hooks and eyes, the hooks are usually sewed on first. Place the hook in the position desired, setting it back from the edge of the hem at least 1/8". Knot the thread and insert the needle about 1/2" from the hook; bring the needle through between the two thicknesses of cloth and bring it up inside of one of the eyelets of the hook; sew over and over this eyelet until it is well filled with stitches; fill the opposite eyelet in the same manner. See Figure 35. Slip the needle between the two thicknesses of the material to the end of the hook and sew over and over, under the curve of the hook until it is securely fastened. Insert the needle in the material near the hook and bring it out between the two thicknesses of the cloth about 1/2" distant. This leaves about 1/2" of thread in the cloth which will be sufficient fastening for the stitches. A neater and firmer, but more difficult way of fastening on hooks and eyes is to buttonhole around the eyelets as shown in Figure 36.
There are two kinds of eyes that may be used with the hooks, one curved and the other straight. The curved hook is used on fitted dress linings and should be sewed on as in Figure 36, letting the eye extend beyond the hem the same distance that the hook has been set in from the edge of the opposite side. Sew around the wire loops in the eye just as you did the hook. Sew over and over the loops of the eye on each side to hold it firmly in place. Fasten the thread at the beginning and end the same as in sewing on the hook.
To sew on a straight eye, place it in the proper position opposite the hook as in Figure 35. Sew around the loops with the same kind of stitch used in sewing on hooks.
Place the smaller part of the snap on the upper edge of the hem being careful that the little projection in the snap is placed out. Sew over and over the outer rim in the small holes made for this purpose. In sewing on the under part of the snap, be careful to set it so as to receive the other portion of the snap correctly. A good way to insure its being exactly right is to keep the snap together until you are ready to sew it on, unsnap it to sew on the upper part. See Figure 37. Snap it again, hold the material in the position which it will take when the snaps are closed; unsnap it without removing it and sew it securely in place. Hooks and eyes are used any place in a garment where an opening is to be kept invisibly closed. The hooks and eyes used on skirt bands should be large; those used on thin dress materials should be small. They should harmonize in color with the material used, that is, the white ones should be used on light material and black ones on dark material. Snaps are also used on plackets and on any openings in a garment where there is little strain.