This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.
For a boy's blouse waist, take measures and draft as for a child's waist, adding four inches to the length, and an inch to half the front, and the same to half the back, at the bottom of the waist, making two inches added to the front for fullness. The additions to the waist for the fullness can be made in cutting by laying the pattern on the doubled goods in such a way as to have a margin of an inch at the bottom beyond the pattern in the front and back. As the blouse is not opened in the back, but the front, the back should be cut on a doubled width of goods, and the inch and three-fourths allowed for the lap should be cut on each side of the front.
This blouse is made like the child's dress waist, with the exception that the bottom is hemmed in a half-inch hem through which an elastic, one inch longer than the waist measure, is run. The added inch on the length of the elastic is for the fastening on either side at the ends.
The underwaist for boys, on which the kilt skirt or trousers are buttoned, is the same as the child's underwaist.
The sleeve of the blouse is cut like the sleeve of the child's dress, with the exception that there is no wrist slant, and the fullness is gathered into a cuff or band.
The kilted skirt is made of straight widths of cloth cut long enough to reach just below the knees, with four inches allowed for a hem. The width is four times the waist measure. The placket is cut and hemmed as in the underskirt. When the skirt has been hemmed, and laid in two-inch plaits, it is felled to a band three inches wide and one inch longer than the waist measure. There are seven buttonholes in the band, -one in each end, two at each side, and one in front.
How is a blouse waist drafted? Ans. The same as a child's waist, with four inches added to the length, and two inches to the back, and the same to the front for fullness.
Is the blouse waist closed in the back or the front? Ans. In the front.
How is the lap provided for? Ans. The provision for the front lap is the same as for the back.
How is this done? Ans. By adding an inch and three-quarters on each side.
How is the waist finished at the bottom? Ans. A half-inch hem is turned, and when it is hemmed, an elastic, one inch longer than the waist measure, is run in, drawn up, and fastened on each side.
How full is a kilt skirt cut? Ans. Four times the waist measure.
How long should it be? Ans. A little below the knees, with four inches added for a hem.
How is the placket cut? Ans. Like the one in the underskirt.
How wide should the kilts be? Ans. Usually two inches in width.
How should the band be cut? Ans. One inch longer than a loose waist measure, and three inches wide.
Where should the buttonholes be cut? Ans. One in the front, and two on each side, with one in each end of the band.