This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.
The first model of this grade is a square of rather coarse linen, measuring six inches on each side, which is for practice in finer hemstitching than has been done before, and the first work in linen marking.
Three-quarters of an inch from the edge on each of the four sides of this square of linen draw three threads. Along the length of the model, after creasing down an eighth of an inch, turn a hem that just reaches the line of drawn threads. When these hems are basted, turn and baste the width hems in the same way. The two lengths, and after that the two width sides, are turned so that the four corners may be uniform, each one being square.
Let this edge be hemstitched by taking up three threads at each stitch. This being done, have each pupil write or print her name in pencil in the left-hand lower corner as a guide for the marking; stitch this name in white marking-cotton. Then go Over it in overhand backstitch in red marking-cotton, picking up each white backstitch, and the model is finished.
What is the first model of the fifth grade? Ans. A piece of linen six inches square to be hemstitched and marked.
How is it prepared for hemstitching? Ans. Three threads are drawn three-quarters of an inch from each edge of the model.
How is the hem turned? Ans. It is first turned in an eighth of an inch along the length edges, and the hem is turned to meet the line of drawn threads. The width edges are then turned in the same way, so that a square is formed at each corner.
Why are the two length edges turned and then the width edges? Ans. That the corners may be uniform.
When the hemstitching is finished, how is the marking done? Ans. The name is first written or printed with a pencil.
What is the next step? Ans. The name is then carefully outlined in backstitching with white marking-cotton.
How is it finished? Ans. Overhand the white backstitching with red marking-cotton, taking up each stitch of the backstitching.