This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.

More difficult than anything that has yet been cut and drafted are the drawers of this model. As in the apron, the first thing is to draft and cut a paper pattern. First take two measures, - a loose waist measure, and the length from the waist to the knee.

Draw a parallelogram with half the waist measure, to which four inches have been added for the two horizontal lines, and the distance from the waist to the knee for the vertical lines. The four inches added to half the waist measure are for gathers. As the four lines of the parallelogram are help lines, draw them dotted. Let the base line of this parallelogram be A, the left-hand vertical line B, the upper horizontal line C, and the right-hand vertical line D. In these drawers, as in all the garments of this system, the right-hand side is the back.

Draw a dotted vertical line, E, through the center of the parallelogram. Draw a dotted horizontal line, F, one inch below half the distance between A and C, extending it four inches on each side beyond lines B and D. Draw a dotted oblique line from the end of line F to A on either side, and within these a slightly curved cutting-line. Two inches below line A draw a straight drafting-line three-fourths of an inch longer than line A on each side, and connect with line A by an oblique line. This forms the hem at the bottom.

From the end of line F, on the right-hand side, which is to be the back of the drawers, draw a straight dotted line, H, that extends two and one-half inches above line C. Draw a dotted line, I, four inches to the left, and connect line C. From the center of line I, draw an oblique cutting-line to the end of line F, and another connecting it with dotted line E, which divides the back from the front.

For the front, extend line C one inch, and from this point to the end of line F draw an oblique line. From the end of line C to the vertical line E make the dotted line C a cutting-line. From line C, five inches down line E, cut an opening for a placket, if the drawers are to be closed; if they are to be open in the center, this is not necessary. When this pattern has been drafted and cut by the pupil until she can do it with perfect ease, let the pattern be laid on the doubled goods, and the drawers cut. The material used for these drawers should be Lonsdale muslin of good quality.

Take a piece of Lonsdale muslin six inches square, fold diagonally and cut, slightly curving the seam. Baste the seam one-half an inch from the edge, backstitch, trim one edge so that it can be turned under, baste and fell. This is to teach the child how to sew and finish a bias seam.

Model of Drawers.

The pupils are now ready to put the drawers together. First the curved seam that forms the lower part of the leg is basted a half-inch from the edge, is backstitched, trimmed and felled as the seam just finished was. In basting these seams, care should be taken to have the two fronts face each other, and the reason for this should be explained to the pupils.

Turn and fell the hem at the bottom of the leg. Then join the center seam so that the two leg seams are exactly opposite each other. If desired, this seam may be joined three inches from the top in front, and from that point faced and left open.

Child's Drawers and Underwaist/

To finish the placket, take a piece of muslin ten inches long and one and one-half inches wide. Seam this around the placket so that the seam is on the right side. Turn in the edges of this strip, and bring over and fell. The fullness where this strip is turned forms a sort of gusset.

For the front band, add one and one-half inches to half the waist measure for the length, and cut it four and one-half inches wide. The back band is the same width, but is one and one-half inches shorter than half the waist measure. Both bands should be cut lengthwise of the goods.

The gathering of the front and back should begin four inches from each side. When the gathering is done and the gathers are stroked, the bands should be basted on and felled, taking up a gather with each stitch; then turned, basted, and felled in the same way. There should be a buttonhole in the two ends and the center of each band, making six in all. These drawers are to be buttoned onto an underwaist.

What is the third model of the fifth grade? Ans. A pair of drawers.

What is the first thing to be done? Ans. Draft and cut a pattern.

What is the first thing to be done in preparing to draft a pattern? Ans. Take the measures.

How many measures are taken for drawers? Ans. Two - a loose waist measure, and the length from the waist to the knee.

How is the pattern drafted from these measures? Ans. First a parallelogram is drawn with half the waist measure, to which four inches is added for gathers, for the base horizontal lines, and the distance from the waist to the knee for the vertical lines.

Is this whole parallelogram in cutting-lines? Ans. No; only the base line A and the right-hand vertical line D are cutting-lines, the lines B and C being help lines.

What is the next line? Ans. A dotted vertical line, E, through the center of the parallelogram.

What is the next step? Ans. Draw a dotted horizontal help line, F, one inch below half the distance between A and C, extend it four inches on each side beyond lines B and D.

How is the drafting continued? Ans. Draw a dotted oblique help line from the end of line F to A on either side, and within these a slightly curved cutting-line.

How is the hem provided for? Ans. Two inches below line A draw a straight drafting-line, three-fourths of an inch longer than the line on either side, and connect the two with an oblique line.

Which side of the pattern is the back? Ans. The right-hand side.

How is the back drafted? Ans. From the end of line F on the right-hand side, draw a vertical dotted help line H, extending two and one-half inches above line C, and from the end of this line draw a dotted help line, T, four inches to the left, and connect with line C.

How are the next lines drawn that finish the back? Ans. From the center of line I, draw an oblique cutting-line to the end of line F at the right, and another to the end of line E at the left.

How is the front drafted? Ans. Extend line C an inch, and from this point draw an oblique line to line F.

What finishes the drafting of this pattern? Ans. Make the help line C from E to B a cutting-line, and cut down line E five inches for a placket.

What sewing is done before the drawers are put together? Ans. A diagonal seam through a six-inch square of muslin is cut, sewed, and felled.

What is this for? Ans. To show how a bias seam is sewed and felled.

How are the drawers put together? Ans. The curved seams that form the lower part of the leg are basted a half-inch from the edge, care being taken to have the two fronts come together.

Why should the two fronts come together? Ans. Because otherwise both parts will be for one leg.

How are these seams sewed? Ans. They are first backstitched and then felled.

What is the next thing to be done? Ans. Turn the hems at the bottom.

How is the center seam finished? Ans. It is either basted, with the leg seams exactly opposite each other, backstitched and felled, or it is joined three inches in the front, and then faced and left open.

When the center seam is closed, where are the plackets placed? Ans. On each side; and they are five inches long.

How are the plackets finished? Ans. Take a piece of muslin ten inches long and one and one-half inches wide, and seam this on around the plackets so that the seam is on the right side. Turn in the edge of this facing, bring it over on the seam, baste, and fell.

What does this fullness where this facing is turned form? Ans. A kind of gusset.

How are the bands cut? Ans. For the front band, take half the waist measure, and add one and one-half inches for the length, and make it four and one-half inches wide. The back band should be the same width, but one and one-half inches shorter than half the waist measure.

If the drawers are not closed, how should the band be cut? Ans. Four and one-half inches wide, and as long as the waist measure, with one inch added for the lap.

How should the bands be placed? Ans. The gathering should begin four inches from each side, and when the gathers have been stroked, fell on the bands, taking up a gather at each stitch, then turn, and fell in the same way.

How are the buttonholes placed? Ans. If the drawers are closed, and two bands are used, there is one buttonhole in the end of each band and one in the center, making six in all.

If one band is used, how are the buttonholes placed? Ans. There is one in the front, one at each side, and two behind, making five in all.

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