This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.
The third model is the gingham apron, which is the first garment drafted and cut. Two measures are taken, one across the chest from one arm to the other, and the other from the center of the chest to within an inch of the bottom of the skirt, which is the length. These measures should he taken by the pupil with the teacher's assistance.
When this is done, let the pupil draft a parallelogram twice as wide as the chest measure, and as long as the other measure. From the upper right-hand corner measure three inches down and two and one-half inches from the same corner to the left, and draw a curve for the arm scye. Cut two bands three and one-half inches wide, and as long as the chest measure. When the pattern has been drafted and cut, lay it on a double fold of the goods, pin and cut. Two of these pieces should be cut, one for the front and one for the back. The center of the back is cut open down the entire length.
When the apron is cut, the under arm seams are basted and sewed in a very narrow seam, with three running stitches and one backstitch. The seams are then trimmed, turned, and back-stitched, making what is known as a French fell. Hem the two sides of the back in hems one-fourth of an inch wide, and the bottom in a hem an inch wide. Turn a hem a fourth of an inch wide about the arm scye.
Gather the top, beginning one and one-half inches from the arm scye. After stroking the gathers and basting on the bands, hem them to the apron by taking each gather up as a stitch, and hem them down in the same way. Turn a hem down the length of the string and across one end a quarter of an inch wide, and across the bottom one inch wide; sew on the shoulders, and tie.1
Model of Gingham Apron.
1 It has been found that the white apron is more generally satisfactory for a sewing apron than the gingham one. The former may, therefore, he substituted for the latter if desired.
The work of this grade is finished by eight review lessons in practical darning without assistance from the teacher. First there should be the under-and-over stocking darn, not in canvas, but on a stocking. Let the pupils each bring a stocking that requires repairing. In the same way have linen and knitted darning practically applied. If there are pupils who have accomplished all the work of the grade in a satisfactory manner before the close of the year's work, let them make the silk bag as a reward of diligence.