This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.
Fold the model with the long sides together so that the two short sides are even, and overhand the hemstitched sides, carefully matching the threads. The attention of the pupil should be especially called to the depth of the stitch. It should not be more than one thread deep, as otherwise the seam will be clumsy, and will not lay flat. No. 40 white cotton thread should be used for this overhanding.
After turning down the top of the bag five threads, baste a red tape half an inch wide about the top, one thread from the edge, so that it does not show on the right side. It should be basted twice, once near the upper and once near the lower edge. The lower edge of this facing must be even with a thread of the canvas, where it is held in place by a line of hemming in the red crochet cotton.
The upper edge is finished with the buttonhole stitch in red crochet cotton. The stitch is made by setting the needle down four threads, and throwing the thread from the eye of the needle over it from right to left, forming a twisted loop, which is the pearl edge of the buttonhole.
When the top is finished, draw six threads above the horizontal line of hemstitching about the top of the model, and from each side run in a piece of No. 2 red lute-string ribbon, which is long enough to form a bow on either side when the bag is not drawn up. This completes the work of the second grade.
How is the model finished? Ans. It is first folded so that the short edges come evenly together.
How is it joined? Ans. It is overhanded together very carefully, bringing the hemstitching at the top and the threads down the sides evenly together.
How deep should the overhand stitch be taken? Ans. One thread on each side.
What thread is used? Ans. No. 40 white cotton thread.
What is the next thing to be done? Ans. Face the bag with red tape a half an inch wide.
How is this done? Ans. Turn in the top of the bag three threads, baste the tape on one thread from the top, having the lower edge straight with a thread, where it is hemmed on with red crochet cotton.
How is the bag finished at the top? Ans. With the buttonhole stitch in red crochet cotton.
How is this buttonhole stitch done? Ans. The needle is set four threads down, and the thread looped over the needle from right to left in such a way as to form a pearl or buttonhole edge.
What is the next thing to be done in finishing this model? Ans. Above the hemstitching, around the top of the bag, draw six threads.
What is this space for? Ans. For the two ribbons used in drawing up the bag.
How are these ribbons run in this space? Ans. Under six threads and over six threads.
Why are they run from both sides? Ans. So that the bag may be drawn evenly from each direction.
What sort of ribbon is used, and how is it finished at the ends? Ans. No.2 red lute-string ribbon is used, and it is tied in a bow on each side.
How much ribbon is required for this bag? Ans. Two yards.
How many models in the second grade?
What is this one model?
In what way is the canvas of this model different from that used for the second model of the first grade?
How many different designs ornament this model?
What is a design?
What is a composition?
How many different kinds of stitches are there on this model?
How many of these stitches have not been given before?
When is overhanding used?
Of how many stitches is each design composed?
Are there more stitches used in ordinary sewing than there are on this fancy bag?
What is the difference between a flannel and a buttonhole stitch?
How does stemstitching differ from backstitching?