This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.
Leaving a space of six threads, put in a line of hemming by taking up two stitches and slanting over two. Count three threads, and put in a line of stem, or, as it is often called, outline stitch. This is done by taking up two stitches and going back two, beginning at the left instead of the right, and keeping the thread from the beginning to the end on the same side of the stitching. This stitch is really the reverse side of backstitching, and on the under side of the model forms a perfect backstitch.
There are three lines of the stemstitch with two threads of canvas between each of them. Three threads from the last line of stemstitch-ing put in a line of hemming. This finishes the last design on the left side of the bag. Each of these designs is repeated on the right side.
How many designs ornament this bag? Ans. Seven in all.
How many different designs are there? Ans. Four.
How many designs are repeated? Ans. Three are repeated.
Of what is the last design composed? Ans. Of hemming and the stem-stitch.
How are they arranged? Ans. First there is a line of hemming six threads to the left of the backstitching that finishes the last design.
What is the next stitch in this design, and where is it placed? Ans. The stemstitch, which is put in three threads from the hemming.
How is the stemstitch put in? Ans. It is begun at the left instead of the right, by first taking up two threads, then setting the needle back two and taking two threads at each stitch, keeping the thread under the needle.
What stitch is the stemstitch like? Ans. It is taken like, and is really the reverse side of, the backstitch.
How many lines of stemstitch are there in this design? Ans. Three; and there are two threads of the canvas between them.
What finishes this design? Ans. A line of hemming three threads from the last row of stemstitching.