This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.

The material for this model is a piece of domestic gingham six and one-fourth inches wide and thirteen and one-fourth inches long, figured in quarter-inch checks. From the upper left-hand corner of this gingham model, cut out a piece two and one-half inches long and one and one-half inches wide. Turn in the edges of this opening one-fourth of an inch, taking care to follow a single thread of the fabric. This makes an opening two and three-quarter inches in length and one and three-quarter inches in width.

Cut a gingham patch three and one-fourth inches in length and two and one-fourth inches in width. Crease down one side and one end of this patch one-half inch, and place it under the corner which has been cut out of the ginghan model, in such a way that the edges, when turned in, face each other, and the little squares match to the nicety of a thread. When this has been done, turn back the patch and overhand it to the model, holding it so that the squares of the model are carried out to a thread in the squares of the patch. Cut the corners of that part of the model which is turned in obliquely, trim the seam, and fell the edge of the patch down onto the model with the linen hem.

On the opposite end of the model, measure two inches from each edge, and cut out a piece one and one-half inches wide and two and one-quarter inches long. See that the patch just finished is in the right-hand upper corner, that it may be right side out, and turn in the three edges as for the first patch. Cut a patch three and three-quarter inches long and two and one-quarter inches wide, and turn in one-half inch on three sides. Place so that the edges of the model and of the patch, which have been turned in, shall face, and the checks exactly match. Turn back the patch, overhand the four sides; cut the corners of the model, where it is turned in, obliquely, and fell the patch onto the model with the linen hem.

The Gingham Patches.

For the next patch, cut out a piece from the model two and one-half inches from the end and two inches from the side, two and three-eighth inches long and two inches wide. After turning in the four sides of this opening, cut a patch one-half an inch larger on each side than the opening, place the patch, after turning in the edges, so that they face and the squares match to a thread, and proceed as in other patches.

When this patch is finished, cut another opening of the same size and form in the opposite end of the model, letting the pupil measure the patch and the work without assistance. Nothing imperfect should he permitted to pass. Work that is not correctly done should be at once ripped and rectified.

For the next patch, an opening is cut in the center of the model two and three-eighth inches long and three and one-fourth inches wide. The patch for this is cut one-half an inch larger on each side than the opening, after it has been turned in one-fourth of an inch on each of the four sides. The patch is turned in one-half inch on each side, care being taken to turn this as well as all edges, by a thread. Where the edges of the patch and of the opening have been turned in and the patch placed, it is overhanded in on the right side, while on the underside it is simply overcast, as it represents a patch where there is a lining.

Scheme of Gingham Patches.

The last patch of this model is one that is placed diagonally on the corner. First measure an inch and a half each way from the corner opposite the first patch, and cut diagonally. Cut a patch like this corner with a half-inch added along the diagonal side. Turn in the diagonal edges of the model and the patch, and overhand together; trim the edge of the model that is turned in, and fell the patch with the linen hem. First hem the long sides with an eighth-inch hem, then turn the ends and hem in the same way. The reason for hemming first the sides and then the ends is that the corners may be even and square.

What is the first model of the seventh grade? Ans. A piece of domestic gingham figured in quarter-inch checks, six and one-fourth inches wide, and thirteen and one-quarter inches long.

How many patches are there in this model? Ans. Six patches.

What is the first thing to be done? Ans. From the upper left-hand corner of the model, a piece is cut two and one-half inches long and one and one-half inches wide, and the three edges of this opening are turned in one-fourth of an inch.

How large is the patch for this opening? Ans. It is three and one-quarter inches in length and two and one-fourth inches in width, and is creased down on two sides so that it fits the opening in the model.

How is this patch placed? Ans. It is so placed that the squares of the gingham match to a thread.

How should the edges of both patch and model be turned? Ans. Along the line of a thread.

When the patch has been placed, how should it be sewed? Ans. It should first be overhanded, then the corners of that part of the model which is turned in are cut obliquely, the edge trimmed, and the patch felled down with the linen hem.

Where is the next patch placed? Ans. In the opposite end of the mode, measure two inches from each edge, and cut out a piece one and one-half inches wide and two and one-quarter inches long.

How should the edge of this opening be turned? Ans. First see that the patch already placed is in the right-hand upper corner, that it may be right side out, and turn in the edge one-fourth of an inch along the line of a thread.

What size is the patch for this opening? Ans. It is three and threequarter inches long and two and one-quarter inches wide, and is turned in a half inch on three sides.

How is this patch placed? Ans. It is so placed that the squares exactly match, and the edges of the patch and the model are then overhanded together.

How is this patch finished? Ans. The corners of that part of the model which is turned in are cut obliquely, the edge is trimmed, and the part of the patch which was creased is felled down over the model with the linen hem.

What is the third patch in this model? Ans. The four-sided patch.

Where is the four-sided patch placed? Ans. Two and one-half inches from the lower edge of the model, and two inches from the side edge.

How large a space is cut? Ans. A piece two and three-eighth inches long and two inches wide.

How large is the patch? Ans. After the edges of the opening have been turned in, the patch should be one-half inch larger on each side than the opening.

How is this patch placed? Ans. So that the squares match to a thread, and it is then overhanded and felled like the other patches.

What is the next patch? Ans. Another like this in the other end of the model.

What is the next work of this model? Ans. Cut an opening in the center of the model two and three-eighth inches long and three and one-fourth inches wide, and crease down one-fourth inch on the edges.

How long is the patch for this? Ans. One-half inch larger than the opening after the edges are turned.

How is this patch placed? Ans. After creasing the edge of the patch along a thread, overhand it onto the model as before. Overcast the under edge instead of felling it, as this represents a patch where there is a lining.

What is the last patch of this model? Ans. A diagonal patch on the corner.

How is this patch placed? Ans. Measure an inch and a half each way from the corner opposite the first patch, and cut off diagonally. Cut a patch like this corner with half an inch added along the diagonal side; match the squares perfectly; overhand and fell as in the other patches.

Continue to: