This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.
Cut a straight strip of silk or ribbon fifteen inches long; if ribbon, six inches wide, if silk, seven inches wide. In each end of this piece of silk or ribbon, cut, two inches from the side edge, and three-quarters of an inch from the end edge, four buttonholes, lengthwise of the goods and three-eighths of an inch long. These buttonholes should be three inches apart.
Hem the two end edges and, if it is silk, the side edges. Overhand the two ends together an inch and one-half from each edge, leaving an open space of three inches in the center. Overhand the side edges together. Through the two buttonholes at each side run a narrow ribbon a yard long, so that it pulls up from both sides, and tie these ribbons in a bow on either side. As is obvious, two yards of ribbon are required. When it is drawn up, and the upper edges held together, it somewhat resembles a butterfly, and is often called by the children "The Butterfly Bag." It is a particularly convenient little receptacle to use in traveling, for buttons and other small trifles, as it can be laid perfectly flat, or hung up by the ribbon draw-strings.
Silk Butterfly Bag.
What is the third model of the fourth grade? Ans. The gingham apron.
How many measures are taken? Ans. Two, - one across the chest from one arm to the other, and one from the center of the chest to within an inch of the bottom of the dress.
When the measures are taken, how is the apron drafted? Ans. Draw a parallelogram twice as wide as the chest measure and as long as the other measure.
How is the arm scye formed? Ans. From the upper right-hand corner, measure down three inches and two and one-half inches to the left, and draw a curve from One point to the other.
Does this complete the drafting? Yes; and the paper pattern may now be cut.
How is the back cut? Ans. Like the front, except that it is cut through the center the entire length.
What other parts are there to this apron? Ans. Two bands three and one-half inches wide and as long as the chest measure, and two strings three inches wide and eighteen inches in length.
How is the apron put together? Ans. The under-arm seams are basted, and sewed in a very narrow seam with three running stitches and one backstitch. They are then turned, and sewed on the other side with a backstitch.
What is a seam finished in this way called? Ans. A French seam or fell.
How are the backs and bottom finished? Ans. The backs are finished with a quarter-inch hem, and the bottom with a hem an inch wide.
How is the neck finished? Ans. It is gathered across the front, except a space one and one-half inches from each arm scye. After the gathers are stroked, and the bands basted, hem them on, taking a gather to each stitch. Turn and hem them down in the same way.
How are the strings finished? Ans. A hem a fourth of an inch wide is turned at the sides and one end, and one a half an inch wide at the other end.
Where are these strings placed? Ans. They are sewed on at the end of the chest band, and tied on the shoulders.
How is the apron fastened at the top? Ans. It is buttoned.
What is the last regular work of this grade? Ans. Eight lessons in mending, with the different kinds of darning.
Where is the knot first used?
How is gathering done?
How should buttonholes be cut?
How should a buttonhole be overcast?
How is the buttonhole stitch taken?
What is the first garment drafted and cut?
What is the shape of this apron before the arm scyes are cut?
How many measures are taken?
For what is this apron intended?
How many different kinds of stitch are used in the apron?
What sort of a seam is the under-arm seam?
How is the kind of darn to be used determined?