This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.
The sleeve is measured, drafted, and cut on the same plan as the sleeve of the child's waist. As the pupil is now familiar with the principles of the system, it is an easy matter to make such alterations in the sleeve as prevailing styles may demand.
Draft the sleeve like the lining described above to point 5, which is connected with the right angle formed by lines C and D by a curved line. The under-arm curve is identical with that of the lining. From point 2 measure two inches toward the wrist, and draw a dotted line to point 1. In this pattern line D is made a cutting line from C to point 1, and points 1 and 2 are connected by a cutting line.
In cutting the sleeve, line D is placed on a fold of the goods, and is cut along the solid line, allowing one-half an inch for the inner seam. Be careful in cutting a pair of sleeves that they are not both cut for one arm. For practice, the measures should be reduced to one-fourth of an inch, and several pairs of sleeves of ma-nilla paper cut and made.
The skirt is of the plain, full sort, made of straight widths, with five inches added to the length desired, for the hem. The placket is like the child's skirt placket. Before gathering, the skirt should be divided into four parts, with six inches more in each of the two back divisions than in each of the two front parts.
The last work of this grade and of the system is a review of all the work, beginning with the practical darning, and closing with a complete outfit, either for the big doll or a small child. The pupils should have, when they finish the course, a complete set of the models of the system which have been perfectly executed by them.
What is the first work of the eighth grade ?
Why is the linen patch more difficult than the one of gingham ?
What is the size of the linen patch model ?
What is the first work on this model ?
How are the patches placed ?
After the patches are set, and the hemstitching and hemming done, how is the model finished ?
How are the measures of the girl's waist taken ?
In what way is the girl's waist different from the child's waist ?
How are the darts placed? How is the side form placed? How is the back slant obtained? How is the sleeve drafted and cut? How is the skirt cut? What is darning? How is a diagonal tear mended?
Like what sort of weaving is the over and under darn? Like what weaving is the linen darn? Is the knitted darn like any kind of weaving? Is all patching done in the same way?
How does the drafting of pants differ from the drafting of drawers? How does the blouse waist differ from a child's waist? What geometrical figure is used in cutting the different garments of this system?