This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.
For this underskirt take the length one inch shorter than the dress-skirt, and to this add two inches for a hem. For a child of from three to five years of age, take two and one-half widths of cambric or Lonsdale muslin, and for a child of from five to twelve years, take three widths of either of these materials.
Join the seams of the skirt in what is known as a French fell, by first sewing up with three running stitches and one backstitch; then trim, and turn, backstitching the seam on the other side.
Take the center of a width for the front, and, directly opposite, cut a placket five inches deep. Turn a half-inch hem on the right side, and a quarter-inch on the other; lap the right side over the left, and stitch at the bottom.
For the band, cut a strip of goods six and one-half inches wide, and one-half an inch longer than the waist measure. This, when it is seamed on and doubled, makes a band three inches wide. Divide this band and also the skirt into four equal parts; gather the two fronts on one thread, and each of the back divisions on a separate thread. Lay the gathers, and baste onto the band, bringing the center of the front of the band and skirt together, and the side divisions of the skirt one-half an inch back of the side divisions of the band. Fell on, taking up a gather with each stitch, then turn and hem down in the same way. Close with buttons and buttonholes.
Cut the shoulder straps three inches wide, double, and overhand them together. The two ends of these straps are felled onto the band together, and either side of the front on an inch slant. These straps are brought over the shoulders, and fastened to the band one inch from the center of the back on either side.
When this skirt is made with the waist, the latter is not faced, but is divided like the band, and is turned in and felled onto the skirt, and then faced with a two-inch facing.
The work of this grade is finished with eight lessons in practical darning. This work should be done without any assistance from the teacher, the pupil selecting the sort of darn suitable for the fabric to be mended, and also the wool or thread with which the work is to be done. Let nothing less than perfect work, independently done, be accepted.
How long should an underskirt be cut? Ans. One inch shorter than the dress skirt, with two inches added for a hem.
How wide should it be? Ans. For a child from three to five, two and one-half widths of Lonsdale muslin or cambric should be used, and for a girl from five to twelve years, three widths of these materials are required.
How should this skirt be seamed up? Ans. It should first be sewed up on the right side with three running stitches and one backstitch, and then trimmed, turned, and sewed onto the other, making a French seam.
Where is the placket placed, and how is it finished? Ans. Take the middle of a width for the front, and directly opposite cut a placket five inches deep, turn a half-inch hem on the right side, and a quarter-inch on the other, lap the right over the left, and stitch at the bottom.
How is the band cut? Ans. Take a strip lengthwise of the goods, six and one-half inches wide, and one-half an inch longer than the waist measure, and divide it into four parts.
How is the skirt gathered? Ans. First divide into four parts and notch. Gather the front half on one thread, and the two back parts, each on a separate thread.
How is the skirt put onto the band? Ans. After the gathers are stroked, put the front notch in the skirt even with the corresponding notch in the band, and the side notches in the skirt one-half an inch back of those in the band, baste and fell, taking up one gather with each stitch.
How is the buttonhole placed? Ans. On the right side of the band near the end, so that it laps from right to left.
How are the straps placed? Ans. They are hemmed onto the inside of the band in front, with the edges together, so that they can be crossed on the chest, and are brought over the shoulders, and felled onto the band on each side one inch from the center.
How are the shoulder bands cut and made? Ans. They are lengths of cloth three inches wide, doubled, and overhanded together.
When the skirt is a part of the underwaist, how is it finished? Ans. The waist is not faced, and the skirt is put on in the same way as on a band, and the facing is then felled onto the skirt and waist.
What finishes the work of the sixth grade? Ans. Eight practice lessons in the four kinds of darning that have been taught.
If time permits, some of the garments which the pupil has learned to make may be made for the doll of the department before the work of this grade is closed.
What is the first thing to do in drafting a waist pattern? How many measures are taken? What are they, and in what order are they taken?
When the measures are taken, what is the first thing to be done in drafting a waist?
Which of the measures are used in drawing this geometrical figure? What are help lines, and how are they drawn?
When the pattern is finished, what lines bound it?
How many cutting-lines are there in this underwaist pattern?
Which side in all the patterns of this system is used for the back?
How is the front curve of the neck formed?
How is the back curve of the neck formed?
What change is made in the pattern when the waist is larger than the bust?
When the bust is larger than the waist, how is the pattern drafted?
Can this pattern be cut without using parts of inches?
How is this done?
Will the pattern fit well when only whole inches are used?
Take the measures, and draft a pattern.
When the pattern is finished, how is the underwaist cut?
How is this waist put together?
How is it finished?
What measures are taken for a child's underskirt?
How many widths are required for the underskirt of a child from three to five years of age?
How many widths are required for the underskirt of a girl of from five to twelve years of age?
How is an underskirt cut that has a band and shoulder straps?
When it is made with the underwaist, how is the underskirt finished?
How many kinds of darning are there, and what are they?