This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.
When the measures have been taken, let them be reduced to quarter inches. Lay the pattern on the manilla paper in such a way that the front is on a fold of the paper, allowing an inch at the back for buttons and buttonholes, and an eighth of an inch for the shoulder and side seams. Sew the seams with a backstitch with a No. 8 needle and No. 50 white thread.
If the difference between the bust and waist is four inches, there should be but one dart and no slant at the back; if there is a difference of five inches, there should be one dart and one inch slant at the back; if there is a difference of seven inches, there should be two darts and one inch slant at the back.
How should the measure for a girl's waist be taken? Ans. The same as for a child's waist.
When the measures are taken, what is done? Ans. A parallelogram is drawn with half the bust measure for the base line A, and the front length with two and a half inches added for the vertical line B.
What are the next lines? Ans. Measure the side length on vertical lines B and D, and from these two points draw a dotted help line E; measure the front length on vertical lines B and D, and draw a dotted help line F.
How is the next line found? Ans. Measure one-fourth of the bust measure on line A from the left-hand lower right angle of the parallelogram, and also on line C, and draw a straight dotted help line G.
How is the line that forms the under-arm seam found? Ans. Measure half the back width on the base line A from the right-hand angle of the parallelogram, and draw perpendicular help line H to C.
How is the curve in the back of the neck formed? Ans. From line C, down line D, measure an eighth of an inch, point 1, and one inch and a half on line C and half an inch up, point 2, and connect the two points with a slightly curving line.
How is the shoulder slant formed? Ans. From point 2 to the intersection of lines H and F, draw an oblique line, and measure the length of the shoulder, point 3.
How is the back arm scye formed? Ans. Draw a slightly curving line from point 3 to the intersection of lines E and H.
How is the slant of the back formed? Ans. From the angle of A and D, measure an inch on line A, and draw a help line from the back of the neck to this point.
How is the side form obtained? Ans. Measure half the shoulder length, point 4, then measure on line A three inches to the left from the angle of lines A and D, and draw a dotted help line I to point 4. Measure three inches along the arm scye from the end of the shoulder line, point 5, and draw a slightly curving line to help line I, and follow it to base line A.
How is the back lap formed? Ans. Add an inch and three-quarters to lines A and C, and connect with cutting line J.
How is the front part of the neck formed? Ans. Measure two inches and a half down line B, point 6, and the same distance on line C, point 7, and connect with a curved line.
How is the front shoulder formed? Ans. From the neck line on C, draw an oblique line to the intersection of lines H and F, point 8, and measure the length of the shoulder on this line point 9.
How is the front arm scye formed? Ans. From point 9, draw a curved line to the intersection of lines H and E.
How is the first dart formed? Ans. From the angle of lines A and B, measure one inch and a half to the right, point 10; again measure one and a half inches to the right, point 11; half-way between these, draw a help line straight upward, five inches in length, and connect points 10 and 11 with the top of this help line by oblique lines.
How is the second dart formed? Ans. Measure one inch to the right of the last dart, point 12, and again an inch and a half to the right, point 13. Half-way between these two points, draw straight upward a dotted help line six inches in length; connect points 12 and 13 with the upper part of this line by oblique lines.
If, after the darts are taken out, line A is longer than half the waist measure, what is done? Ans. Half of the difference is taken off from each side of line H.