This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
This draft may be worked out on paper first, or directly on the material to be used, with shirtwaist or corset cover draft as the foundation. As this model is given to allow the garment to slip over the head instead of opening in the front, the center back and front are laid on lengthwise folds. If open in front, follow directions for nightgown, i. e., the next draft.
The back pattern is used first, in order to obtain the underarm measurement. Two inches to right of a warp or lengthwise fold, place line 2 and 5 of back pattern. More allowance for fullness may be added. Measure down from Dot 1, for length of back, and not Dot 2.
Dot 14 is this point.
With yardstick on Dots 8 and 12, draw or trace a line that will meet a horizontal line drawn at right angles with center back line, as illustrated.
Dot 15 is this connection. The distance between Dots 8 and 15 is the length of underarm, and the traced line is the sewing line.
The front pattern of corset cover is laid with Dots 1 and 4, three inches to left of a warp or lengthwise fold, directly on the material to be used, or paper. More allowance for fulness may be added.
Measure down from Dot 1, and not Dot 2, the length of front measurement, and Dot 17.
The underarm measurement is the same length as line 8 and 15 on back draft and is found by placing yardstick on Dots 9 and 14, drawing or tracing a straight line down from Dot 9 to equal this measurement.
Dot 18 is this point. Connect 17 and 18 with a slight downward curve.
Trace front pattern as illustrated on heavy lines. Trace waist line, and cut notch on Dot 14. Cut, leaving 3/4 inch on shoulder and underarm seams, and 1/4 inch on neck, armsizes and bottom of chemise. Pin shoulder and underarm seams together, matching the latter at notches on right side.
Baste right side on sewing line, try on, and alter if necessary. Make French seams, turning them toward the back when finished. Bind the armsizes and neck as on corset cover, and finish the bottom of chemise with a ruffle, put on in the same manner as dust ruffle on the 5-gored underskirt, allowing 5 inches for ruffle when finished. A wide hamburg or embroidered beading may be stitched flat on the waist line (do not use lace, because it is not strong), making center of beading come on traced line, and stitching on either edge. Join on underarm. The width of the chemise at top, if it slips over the head, must equal the hip measurement, in order to be taken off easily. Fasten and cut all loose threads and finish off ends neatly. Press and fold with underarm seams together. Attach name and date.