This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
Material 5 1/4 yards, 36 inches wide. Sateen, moreen, hyde-grade, etc.
Use same measurements as for 5-gored underskirt, deducting 15 inches for flounce above dress length.
Take full size sheet drafting paper, and on this, place all the gores of the 5-gored underskirt pattern, found on page 77.
Match each gore according to notches, with front gore at lower edge of paper. Bring edges of paper together, without lapping for seams.
An extra piece of paper will have to be pasted on back portion to complete pattern.
Curve the waist line more and test both waist and hips before cutting.
The more curved the waist line, the less need for darts on the side hip. and a round yoke may be traced off from this draft.
In placing pattern on cloth, trace all around the outside edge of draft, measure up from the bottom of pattern 15 inches, or as many as desired for a flounce and trace this on cloth. Cut, allowing for seams all around except 011 center front, which should be a lengthwise fold. Piece the cloth on either side, the join coming on center back seam and extending toward the sides.
Another way of making skirt with a front gore on same model:
Cut front gore separately as for 5-gored skirt pattern, keeping side and back gores together as the preceding circular gores were drafted. Lay goods, so warp will be on front of side gore. This draft prevents piecing if the goods is wide enough or fashion does not call for too wide a skirt.
The width of skirt at lower edge may be made narrower by taking off as many inches as desired on center of back gore, starting to decrease, from 1/3 the length below waist line.
If more fulness is desired, allow on fold on center front or at the center of back gore.
The flounce is made up of bias ruffles stitched together and joined with narrow bias bands. For 3 bias ruffles, cut all the strips 5 inches wide. Do not measure on the selvage when a bias width is given as it equals nearly a third less. The ruffle for top should be gathered very little. Once and a half or less the distance around the bottom of skirt is sufficient; the second ruffle measuring once and a half the first ruffle, and the third, once and a half the second ruffle. Allow for seams. Join each strip with selvages together, or with French seam where edge is not selvage. Halve and quarter in order to join evenly, with seams and raw edges on right side. The bias band (cut 1 1/2 inches wide) to be finished 3/4 inch, can be stitched on at the same time, holding the right side next to the fullest ruffle, and stitching all three edges together. Turn bias band over on to the upper ruffle to measure. 3/4 of an inch, and stitch close to outside edge. Make the complete flounce before joining to body of skirt. If there are gathers at waist line in the back, put on a 5/8-inch belt (finished) with lap on placket like the underskirt, and finish in same manner.
If habit back is made, finish placket as before explained, and turn under waist line on the tracing, finishing the wrong side with a bias band 1/2 inch wide, stitched on each edge. Use hooks and eyes for fastening. Make hangers, press and attach name and date.