This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
With each draft, is given a model size of measurements, which must be altered and the pupil's own measurements substituted.
Construct a rectangle from the following measurements: for the vertical sides, take the side length measurement less the ruffle, plus 2 inches; for the horizontal sides take 1/3 the hip measurement, plus 4 inches, or the width desired (which is governed by fashion) - 17 inches are given in model, as cotton cloth generally comes 36 inches wide. This width will require no piecing; if piecing is necessary, it must be done at the back. Take 1/2 sheet of drafting paper. Double the paper twice the size of the rectangle, having the fold on the left while drafting. Mark the top corners A and B, the lower C and D as illustrated.
Dot 1 is the side length measurement up from C, deducting the depth of ruffle first.
Dot 2 is one-half waist measurement to right of A. Connect 1 and 2 with straight line.
Dot 3 is 3 inches below Dot 2.
Dot 4 is 2 inches to left of Dot 3.
Connect 1 and 4 with a straight line.
Dot 5 is one-third the side length measurement up from D, after deducting ruffle. Connect 4 and 5 with straight line, then with a left curve, rounding more at base. Connect 2. and 5 with a right curve.
Dot 6 is one-half the waist measurement, or any number of inches which fashion may dictate, to right of C, - 12 inches is given as model, which allows 2 yards of ruffling to complete the garment.
Connect 5 and 6 with a left curve.
Dot 7 is 7 inches down from Dot 1, and is the depth of placket.
If drawers are to be opened on one side only, make Dot 7, 8 inches down from Dot 1, on either side desired. The right side is generally preferred. On line 1 and C write "warp."
Cut on the double fold of paper, on lines 1, 2, 5, 6 and C. Open pattern and on single thickness, cut on line 1, 4 and 5.
Make one small notch on short side between 4 and 5 which is the front; two notches between 2 and 5 which is the back; a notch on Dot 1 and C. This is half of the pattern, so that the cloth must be laid double when cutting. If cloth is in one piece, fold on woof with selvages together, only deep enough to allow for cutting material and its allowance for seams Pin pattern to cloth on the line of warp, measuring from the selvage edge to make sure this line is on the straight. Trace around edge of pattern with a tracing wheel. Allow when cutting, 3/4 inch on front, back and curved seams, and 1/4 inch on upper and lower edges of pattern.
Cut out, making small notches outside the traced line, where indicated on draft. Match back and front seams, pinning, then basting on traced or sewing lines for French seams. The short seam with one notch is the front one, the long with 2 notches, the back seam. Next join the short, under seams - that is, line 5 and 6 in the draft, making French seam or stitching flat.
A flat seam, also called felled, is made by sewing on the wrong side of goods, first, on the sewing line, leaving 3/4 inch outside the stitching. Cut off one side close to seam, then fold wider edge flat as for hem. If fold is laid on a curve, snip turned edge, to prevent wrinkling. Stitch on edge. Felling may also be done with the narrow presser foot hemmer on the lock stitch machine, or the wide hemmer on the automatic. A French seam may also be sewed flat, but is thicker.
To finish placket, cut a strip of cloth, twice the depth of placket (warp cut) and 2 1/2 inches wide (woof). This width allows for seams, making lap 1 inch wide when finished. Stitch edge of lap and the torn edge of placket together on right side, with the narrow strip underneath. Fold the opposite edge of strip to cover the seam, making 1 inch finished. When attached to waistband, the back lap turns under the belt, and the front lap is extended.
Gather top of drawers across front and back with two rows of gathers, 1/4 inch apart, the first row on the traced line, the second, below.
A yoke is made for the front of drawers, the draft is as follows:
Construct a rectangle, the horizontal lines being 1/4 the waist measurement (plus 1 inch for lap); the vertical, which is the shorter side as well as the straight or lengthwise, is 4 inches. Indicate corners A B C D. Let A and C be on a fold.
Dot 1 is 2 1/2 inches up from C. Connect 1 and B.
Dot 2 is 1 1/2 inches down from B. Connect C and 2.
Dot 3 is 1/4 the whole waist measure on line 1-B, measuring from Dot 1.
Dot 4 is 1 inch to left of 2 on line C-2. Connect 3 and 4 and trace.
Dot 5 is 1 inch to right of Dot 3. Connect 5 and 2.
Cut out on 1, 5, 2 and C.
Open up pattern, and on a double thickness of cloth with the straight of goods even with the crease in the paper pattern, trace around, allowing 1/4 inch for seams. Cut out. Baste these two pieces on the top edge and sides, and stitch on traced lines. Turn inside out and baste around the stitched edge, snipping cloth at center front to prevent puckering. On both sides turn in lower edge at tracing.
The point of the yoke is middle of front. Match center of drawers to this point, pin and baste along traced line on under yoke piece, scattering the fulness. The upper part of yoke is brought down over this seam, covering it.
Stitch all around edge.
Cut back band 1/2 the waist measurement (warp) for length, by twice the distance of Dots 3 and 4 on front yoke draft. Trace and cut, allowing for seams. Fold belt on width, and stitch ends together. Baste back-gathers into band like front, the seam in the body of drawers meeting the center of belt, with more fulness toward the center. Stitch all around edge.
Cut or tear two strips of cloth, once and a half the distance of lower edge of drawers, and 5 inches deep, allowing for seams, hem and tucks. Cutting 7 inches makes a 3/4-inch hem, and five 1/8-inch tucks. Join ends of each ruffle with French seams before hemming and tucking, and have join meet seam on body of each side. If embroidery is used, match pattern. Before gathering ruffles, notch the center of each, then, with raw edges of ruffle and drawers together, pin, baste and stitch on the right side, making fewer gathers come on either side of the under seam.
Cover raw edges with bias binding or finishing braid, stitching without basting on outside edges, - the lower edge first, holding bias piece straight and firm. Make a horizontal buttonhole on either side of back belt, 1/2 inch in from edge. Sew button so underlap will not be seen. Press, using damp sponge or cloth to take out wrinkles.
Attach name of pupil and date finished.