This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.

Draw half a rectangle with vertical line about 25 inches long, and horizontal line to right, about 12 inches long. Mark corner A.

Dot 1 is 1/5 the whole neck measurement plus 1/4 inch down from A.

Dot 2 is depth of armseye measurement down from Dot 1.

Dot 3 is length of front down from Dot 1 Dot 4 is 5 inches below Dot 3. Dot 5 is 3/4 inch to right of Dot 3.

Dot 6 is 3/4 inch to right of Dot 4.

Connect 1, 2, 5 and 6, which is the center front line.

Dot 7 is 2 1/2 inches to right of A.

Connect 1 and 7 with downward curve about 1/4 of a circle.

Dot 8 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 1, 1/2 the width of front.

Dot 9 is 1 inch above Dot 8. Connect 7 and 9, the correct shoulder length from Dot 7.

Dot 10 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 2, same length as line 1 and 8, or 1/2 the width of front.

Dot 11 is extension on line 2 and 10, to equal bust measurement minus width of back, divided by 2.

Connect 9, 8, 10 and 11, rounding Dot 10 to right, and going below line from Dots 10 to 11.

Dot 12 is a vertical line down from Dot 11, at right angles with 2, 10 and 11, the correct underarm measurement.

Dot 13 is extension of this last line 5 inches below Dot 12.

Dot 14 is 4 inches to right of Dot 13.

Connect 12 and 14, making it 5 inches long from Dot 12.

Dot 15 is this last point.

Connect 5 and 12, which is the waist line.

Connect 6 and 15 which is the hip line.

Dot 16 is half the shoulder length.

Dot 17 is 2 1/2 inches to right of Dot 5.

Dot 18 is 2 1/2 inches to right of Dot 6.

Connect 16 and 17 with a slight curve to left, and 17 and 18 with straight line.

Dot 19 is height of dart measurement up from Dot 17.

From Dot 5 to Dot 12 should equal just 1/4 the whole waist measurement, after dart space is taken out, which is found by subtracting from this number of inches, 2 1/2 inches (the distance between Dots 5 and 17), and measuring the balance to left of Dot 12.

Dot 20 is this point.

From Dot 6 to Dot 15 should equal 1/4 the whole hip measurement after dart space is taken out, which is found by subtracting 2 1/2 inches (the distance between Dots 6 and 18), and measuring the balance to left of Dot 15.

Dot 21 is this point.

Connect 19 and 20 with a slight curve to left, and 20 and 21 with straight line.

Make 3 short vertical lines or small circles one inch below the other, on front pattern and side front, running parallel with the center front line A and 4. These marks signify the warp of material when the pattern is laid on the cloth.

Before cutting out, test every part of pattern, according to measurements taken, then cut on heavy lines, as illustrated, 1, 2, 5, 6, 18, 17, 19, 16, and 7, which is the front portion, and on lines 19, 20 and 21 (rounding Dot 19) for the side front portion. Trace waist line on both pieces, making small notches at these points for matching. On Dot 10, make a small notch where the underarm seam of sleeve joins body of lining.

Draw two sides of a rectangle about 10 inches by 22 inches, with corner to right, marking A.

Dot 1 is 1/4 inch down from A.

Dot 2 is length of back measurement down from Dot 1.

Dot 3 is 5 inches below Dot 2.

Dot 4 is 1 inch to left of Dot 2.

Connect 1, 4 and 3 with a straight line.

Dot 5 is 1/6 the whole neck measurement to left of A, minus 1/6 of an inch.

Connect 5 and 1 with straight line.

Dot 6 is depth of shoulder measurement down from Dot 1.

Dot 7 is depth of back armseye measurement down from Dot 1.

Dot 8 is a horizontal line to left of Dot 6, 1/2 the width of back.

Connect 5 and 8 the correct length of shoulder measurement from Dot 5.

Dot 9 is a horizontal line to left of Dot 7, 1/2 the width of back.

Connect 8 and 9 with a slight curve to right.

Dot 10 is a vertical line down from Dot 9, at right angles with line 7 and 9, the underarm measurement.

Dot 11 is extension of this line 9 and 10, five inches.

Dot 12 is 2 1/2 inches to left of Dot 11.

Connect 4 and 10, which is the waist line.

Connect 10 and 12, making it 5 inches long from Dot 10.

Dot 13 is this point.

Connect 13 and 3, the hip line, with a slight downward curve.

Dot 14 is half the shoulder length on line 5 and 8.

Dot 15 is 1/3 of line 4 and 10, to left of Dot 4.

Dot 16 is 1/3 of line 13 and 3, to left of Dot 3.

From Dot 10 to Dot 4 should equal 1/4 the whole waist measurement after dart space is taken out, which is found by subtracting the number of inches between Dots 4 and 15 from 1/4 the waist measurement, and measuring the balance to right of Dot 10.

Dot 17 is the last point.

From Dot 13 to Dot 3 should equal 1/4 the whole hip measurement after dart space is taken out, which is found by subtracting the number of inches between Dots 3 and 16, from 1/4 the hip measurement, and measuring the balance to right of Dot 13.

Dot 18 is this last point.

Connect 14, 15 and 16, and where this line crosses line 7 and 9, mark Dot 19.

Connect 19, 17 and 18.

Make 3 short vertical lines or small circles one inch below the other, on back pattern and side back piece, running parallel with the center back line of rectangle A and 3. These marks signify the warp of cloth as on front pieces. Before cutting out, test every part of pattern, according to measurements taken, then cut on heavy lines as illustrated: Dots 3, 4, 1, 5, 14, 19, 15 and 16 for center back; and Dots 18, 17, 19, 14, 8, 9, 10, 13 to 18 for side back. Trace waist line on both pieces, making small notches at these points for matching.

Sleeve Take a half sheet of drafting paper, fold on length so the dimensions are about 26 by 12 inches. Have fold at left side while drafting. Mark top at left corner A. Dot 1 is 1 inch below A.

Dot 2 is shoulder to elbow measurement down from Dot 1.

Dot 3 is elbow to hand measurement down from Dot 2.

Dot 4 is length of underarm to elbow measurement up from Dot 2.

Dot 5 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 1, 1/2 the armseye measurement minus 2 inches.

Dot 6 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 4, 1/2 the armseye measurement plus 1 inch.

Dot 7 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 2, 1/2 the elbow measurement plus 1 inch.

Dot 8 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 3, the same length as line 4 and 6.

Connect 6, 7 and 8 with a curve to left.

Measure on this line the correct underarm measurement from Dot 6, first to elbow and then to wrist, as the curve shortens distance and raises the points. Connect 2 and 7 for the elbow, and 3 and 8 for the hand.

Dot 9 is 1/2 the hand measurement plus 1 inch to left of Dot 8.

Dot 10 is the difference between the whole hand measurement and line 9 and 8, to left of Dot 8.

Dot 11 is the difference between the whole elbow measurement and line 2 and 7, to left of Dot 7.

Dot 12 is 1/3 the armseye measurement to right of Dot 1.

Connect 1, 4, 2, and 9 with slight curve to left.

Connect 12, 11 and 10 with slight curve to left.

Connect 1, 5, and 6 with upward curve -the greater the curve the fuller the top of sleeve.

Before cutting out, test every part of pattern according to measurements taken, then trace thru on to under sheet of paper lines 6, 12, 11 and 10, cutting out on the double paper, on heavy lines as illustrated on lines 8, 7, 6, 5, 1, 4, 2, 9 and 8.

Notch at elbow and on Dots 2 and 7.

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