This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
Glace, a glossy or luster finish given to threads and fabrics.
Grass Linen, a thin, transparent muslin (usually natural colored), made from ramie. It is used for lining. Width 27 inches; price 35 cents up.
Gros Grain, a dull-finish silk with a fine woof cord. Width 20 inches; price $1.50 up.
Habutai (hab-u ti), a Japanese all-silk material, of fine smooth weave. Width 25 to 36 inches; price 35 cents to $1.50.
Hemp, see article on hemp.
Henrietta Cloth, a fine quality of worsted, woven cloth, with less luster than cashmere. Width 44 inches; price $1.00 up.
Homespun, cloth woven by hand and not in factories. The British Isles are famous for these cloths. It also applies to a rough woven woolen manufactured goods. Width 54 inches; price $1.50 up.
Hyde Grade, light weight, firmly woven cloth in cotton, wool or mixed, used for linings and underskirts. It is the manufacturers' name and does not specify any one material, but includes percales, moreens, etc.
India Lawn, a fine, high-grade muslin. Width 30 inches; price 25 cents up.
Indian Head, a firm, coarse woven cotton cloth, similar to duck. Width 36 inches; price 15 cents.
Jute, see article on same.
Khaki, a dust colored cotton drilling, deriving its name from the U. S. Army, at the time of the Spanish-American war. Width 28 inches; price 35 cents.
Ladies' Cloth, a light weight broadcloth. Width 52 inches; price $1.00.
Lawn, a thin, cotton or linen cambric or muslin. Width 36 inches; price 25 cents up.
Linen, see article on same.
Long Cloth, soft, fine bleached muslin, used for underclothes. Width 36 inches; price 15 cents to 25 cents. 12 yards at $2.00.
Madras, a kind of gingham, but heavier, made in cotton and silk, plain or figured. Width 28 inches; price 25 cents up.
Marquisette, a kind of voile of a more open weave, made in cotton and silk. Cotton, width 28 inches; price 25 cents up. Silk, 44 inches; price $3.00.
Mercerized, a soft finish given to linen and cotton, thru a process of a caustic soda solution.
Messaline, a soft silk or cotton with a satin finish. Cotton, width 36 inches; price 35 cents. Silk, width 26 inches; price $1.00.
Mohair, a fine quality alpaca, from the angora goat. Width 40 inches; price 75 cents up.
Moire, a watered effect, made in silks, moreens, etc.
Moreen or Morrain, a strong, closely-woven material, with a cotton, wool, silk or mixed warp and a mohair filling.
Cotton, width 27 inches; price 35 cents.
Wool, width 26 inches; price 60 cents.
Silk, width 24 inches; price 75 cents up.
Mixed, width 24 inches; price 50 cents.
Mousseline de Soie, a high-grade silk muslin. Width 48 inches; price 50 cents up.
Mull, thin, sheer muslin. Width 24 inches; price 20 cents up.
Muslin, plain, woven cotton cloth. A general term.
Nap, the down of the fibers covering the surface of certain kinds of cloth. It follows one direction, and may be raised or flat.
Noil, short fibers of the short staple woolen fibers; waste.
Nuns Veiling, a thin, woolen goods, plain woven and dyed black. Width 44 inches; price 75 cents.
Outing Cloth, see Canton flannel, daisy flannel, etc.
Organdie, thin, sheer muslin with a fine and finished texture, plain or printed, with delicate flower patterns. Width 36 inches; price 25 cents up.
Panama, a light woolen material. Width 54 to 58 inches; price $1.00 up.
Panne, a light weight velvet, with a long nap and a high luster. Width 18 inches; price $1.00 up.
Paon, a fine, all-silk quality of velvet. Width 18 inches; price $3.00 up.
Peau de Cygne, a thin, twilled silk. Width 20 inches; price 75 cents to $2.00.
Peau de Soie, a soft, satin finish silk. Width 35 inches; price $1.00 to $3.00.
Percale, a closely woven cotton cloth with more dressing than muslin. Width 28 to 36 inches; price 15 cents up.
Percalene, a watered or glazed surface cotton cloth used for linings. Width 36 inches; price 20 cents up.
Persian Lawn, a sheer quality of lawn. Width 32 inches; price 15 cents to 25 cents.
Persian Silk, silk with a Persian pattern woven in the loom. Width 19 inches; price 85 cents up.
Pique or Pecay, an even corded effect, made on the warp threads of cotton cloth. Width 27 inches; price 25 cents.
Pique (French), a fine quality pique that is imported. Width 28 inches; price 50 cents up.
Pongee, a natural colored silk cloth from Shantung, made from the cocoons found on the mulberry tree. Width 21 to 34 inches; price $1.00 to $2.00.
Poplin, a cotton, woolen or silk dress goods with a cord woven in the woof thread.
Cotton, width 24 inches, price 15c.
Woolen, width 20 inches, price $1.50.
Silk, width 24 inches, price 75c up.
Mixed, width 40 inches, price $1.50.
Print, any cotton cloth with a printed pattern stamped on it. See calico.
Rajah, a silk similar to pongee, with an uneven thickness in the woof thread. It is also imitated in cotton. Silk, width 18 inches, price $1.50 up. Cotton, width 24 inches, price 35c.
Russian Crash, a coarse grey, woven crash used for dress goods and embroidery as well as toweling. Width 17 inches, price 20c up.
Ramie, see article on Linen.
Sateen, a fine threaded, closely twilled cotton cloth, with a glossy finish. Width 36 inches, price 25c-50c.
Satin, a silk or cotton and silk fabric with a high luster on the right side and a dressing in it. Width 22-24 inches, price $1.00 up.
Satin Foulard, a foulard silk, with a satin finish on the right side.
Silk back, width 30-40 inches, price $1.50-$2.50.
Satin back, width 36 inches, price 50c.
Silk Serge, width 30 inches, price $2.00 up.
Silk Taffeta, width 24-36 inches, price 75c up.
Cotton back, width 36 inches, price 70c; herringbone, width 20 inches, price 75c up.
Surah serge, width 30 inches, price $2.00 up.
Scrim, a thin, partly transparent cotton or linen cloth. Width 36 inches, price 25c.
Seersucker, a sort of gingham with a crinkly surface. Width 36 inches, price 15c.
Selvage, the edge of a cloth running on the warp threads, to prevent raveling.
Serge, a fine plain or diagonal weave of woolen goods varying in widths and price.
Herringbone, striped and fancy weaves. Width 54 inches, price $1.50 up.
Tailor's serge. Width 56 inches, price $2.50.
Army serge. Width 64 inches, price $4.00.
Sheeting, linen and cotton cloth of specified widths, weights and price, manufactured to fit regulation size mattresses on beds. Width 1/3 yards, price 10c up.
Shepherds Plaid, a name given to a small, even black and white checked goods in cotton and woolen.
Shoddy, a refuse waste from wool or woolens while in the process of manufacture, and used as filling or woof on cheap materials.
Shot, a changeable color effect given to silk.
Sicilian, similar to alpaca, with cotton warp and mohair woof. Width 36-54 inches, price $1.00-$2.00.
Silesia, a lining cloth made of fine and closely woven cotton. Width 36 inches, price 25c.
Silk, a fabric made from the silk fiber of the larvae from many kinds of moths or silk worms. See article on Silk.
Silk Muslin, a silk fabric of the same weave and weight as fine muslin. Mousseline de Soie is another name for it. Width 36 inches, price 75c up.
Sizing, starching, flouring or stiffening the warp-threads to make them brittle before weaving.
Skinner's Satin, a heavy, fine grade of satin lining, used for coats. Width 36 inches, price $l.C0-$3.00.
Spinning, the process of drawing out and twisting into thread, textile fibers of any description by hand or machinery.
Suitings, varieties of woolens, worsted or cotton mixed fabrics of a plain, heavy texture for suits.
Surah, a twilled silk. Width 24 inches, price 75c.
Symite, a silk and wool fabric. Width 44 inches, price $2.00.
Taffeta, a plain, even woven silk the same on both sides, with more or less stiffening. Width 18 to 36 inches, price 50c up.
Tailor's Canvas, a strong, stiff canvas of high quality used in coats. Width 25 inches, price 25-50c.
Tennis Flannel, see flannelette.
Textile, any fabric woven in the loom.
Tweed, a twilled, woolen suiting, similar to homespun. England and Scotland are noted for them. Width 56 inches, price $2.00 up.
Twill, a diagonally woven effect in cloth.
Twist, a silk thread of two or more strands twisted together, heavier than sewing silk, put on spools of 50 yards each or more.
Velvet, a closely woven silk material with a short pile on the right side. It is formed by a loop, which is afterwards cut.
Cotton back. Width 18 inches, price $1.50. Linen back. Width 32 inches, price $3.00.
Silk back. Width 18 inches, price $5.00 up.
Velveteen, a velvet woven, all cotton material wider than velvet. Width 21 inches up, price 50c up.
Venetian Cloth, a high grade, twill-woven cloth, of worsted, made in plain colors like broadcloth. Width 50 inches, price $1.50 up.
Victoria Lawn, a finer grade than Persian. Width 36 inches, price 25c up.
Voile, an open, even woven cotton, woolen or silk fabric, with some stiffening in it. Width 46 inches, price $1.00 up.
Wool, see article on Wool.
Woolens, cloths produced from the wool fibers, and of a wider width than cottons.
Weaving, the art or process of forming cloth by interlacing yarn in a loom with a warp foundation, and a woof filling.
Worsted, a variety of yarn from the wool fibers spun from the long staple and in spinning, is twisted tighter than usual.
Yarn, any kind of animal or vegetable spun thread used for weaving; not sewing thread.
Zephyr, relates to soft, fluffy goods as flannel, gingham, etc.; also yarn.
Zibeline, woolen dress goods, with long hairs woven in from the fur of camel's hair order. Width 54 inches, price $1.50.