This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
Place front pattern on cloth according to warp as indicated by lines or circles, allowing 2 inches extra on front edge to be turned under and used as a facing for hooks and eyes. Trace all around edge of pattern, and, when cutting out, allow 3/4 inch on shoulder, dart and lower edge of pattern. On neck, cut outside traced line. Trace waist line, and notch either side.
Place side front in the same manner as front pattern, tracing waist line, notching either side, after cutting out. Allow 3/4 inch for seams on shoulder, dart, underarm and lower edge of pattern. Around the armsize, cut outside the tracing.
Place back pattern according to warp of goods, trace waist line, notch and cut out after tracing all around pattern, leaving 3/4 inch for seams and lower edge. On neck, cut outside of tracing.
Place side back according to warp of goods, trace all around pattern, also the waist line, and cut, allowing 3/4 inch for seams and lower edge. Cut outside armseye tracing.
Place both sleeve portions with Dots 6 and 8 on a straight line. Trace each one all around edge of pattern and the elbow line, notching the latter. Cut just outside the trace lines at top of sleeve, and leave 3/4 inch on all the other lines.
Match the back portions together at waist line, pinning, then basting with small, even baste stitches, on traced or sewing line. To either side of these match the side pieces, pinning at waist line first and basting each carefully.
Start at waist line and baste up, then from waist line down.
Put fronts and side fronts together, matching, pinning, then basting. Ease side fronts over the bust lines. Turn the 2 inches allowed on the center of front, on wrong side, and, before marking the spaces for the hooks and eyes, stitch twice on the machine near edge of cloth 1/4 inch apart, to keep edge from stretching.
Starting on waist line, hold the two front edges on wrong side and make dots l 1/4 inch apart above and below the waist. Join back and front portions together, matching notches. The sleeves are matched according to notches at elbow, care being taken not to make both sleeves for same arm.
Try on lining, making any alteration necessary before stitching on machine.
French seams may be made, except on shoulder and underarm seams, or, all the seams may be stitched on wrong side, cut evenly and not too close and notched. The shoulder and underarm seams are left open, and if bound, each is bound separately. All other seams are bound together, facing toward center back and front respectively or toward underarm seams.
Use No. 2 hooks and eyes, sewing hooks on right front and eyes on left.
Hold edge of hook 1/4 inch from edge of material, the extra goods being used to face over the hooks, so only the loop of the hook is visible. Hem facing with small stitches.
Sew on eyes, starting at neck, passing thread from one to the other as with hooks.
Let the loop of eye project only far enough beyond edge of cloth to catch hook easily and prevent gapping.
Fasten eyes securely at both edges, then face the remaining edge of cloth over them as on hook side, with edge of fold invisible on right side.