This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
Have material smooth before placing patterns on it.
As the center of front gore is laid on a lengthwise fold, double the cloth accordingly, to equal the width of gore at bottom, allowing for seams, or in the middle, if the cloth cuts to better advantage. Have widest part of gore at the raw end of material to save cloth. It is an advantage to lay all the patterns on the goods before cutting. Follow the warp as indicated on each pattern. Pin on the warp or straight first, and the rest of the pattern will be on the right grain of goods. Stick pins in horizontally, to keep from puckering, following the width.
Trace around edges of each gore and allow when cutting out,, 1/4 inch at top and bottom of draft, and 3/4 inch on side seams. Cut small notches on hip lines, outside the traced line, as indicated on paper pattern.
To join skirt together, start on right side with front gore. Match at hip, waist and bottom traced lines, pinning at these places first so as not to stretch the bias side of gore beyond the straight sides. Baste on traced or fitting line, holding bias edge on top. Join each side gore to either side of front in the same manner, and the back gores to each side gore, with the two bias edges on center back. Try on and alter if necessary. Stitch as for French seams, first, 3/8 inch out from the traced line, and second, stitching on this line.
To make lap for placket, take a straight piece of goods twice its depth as for the drawers, joining first on right side with straight strip underneath, fold over right side, making one inch wide when finished (model 2 1/2 inches wide which allows for seams.) Gather back gores at waist line within one inch of side back seams, and right side, turning lap or fly underneath.
Cut waist belt 1 inch larger than the waist measurement (the inch is for lap), by 2 inches, allowing 1/2 inch on each end for seams, and 1/4 inch on each long edge. Always cut a belt length on warp of material, otherwise it will stretch. Turn under raw edges, find center, not counting the extra inch for lap to be extended on left side, and cut small notch. Also notch the middle of front gore at waist, and join to under side of belt at center front, with traced line of skirt on folded edge of belt. With all seams turned toward center back, ease into the band as much as possible without puckering, pinning first, then basting very closely. Fold over these edges, the opposite edge of band, baste and stitch one or two rows to keep in place. Cut horizontal buttonhole on right 1/2 inch from end, and sew button firmly on left end, so lap will not be seen.
If body of skirt is put on without easing, it will roll over the belt when garment is worn.
If more fulness is desired at bottom of skirt, increase width of each gore by starting 1/3 of its length below the waist line, on each bias side. For less fulness, decrease. The waist and hips must never be smaller than the measurements taken, and the width around bottom should be in good proportion to the height and the size of hips of each individual, even when extreme fashions are in vogue.