This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
The center back and front are laid on lengthwise folds, altho the gown opens at center front.
Commence with back pattern of corset cover, with line 1 and 5, 3 inches to right of a lengthwise fold. This fulness may be taken in with tucks extending to waist line in order to fit collar band. Measure down from Dot 1 the length to floor and mark Dot 14.
With a yardstick on Dots 8 and 12, draw or trace a line that will meet a horizontal line drawn at right angles with center back as illustrated.
Dot 15 is this connection.
Make notch on Dot 12. Allow same amount on seams as on chemise when cutting.
The front pattern of shirtwaist or corset cover is laid with line 1 and 4, four inches to left of a lengthwise fold, measuring down from Dot 1 the length to floor. Mark Dot 17.
The underarm measurement is the same length as line 8 and 15 on back draft, and is found by placing yardstick on Dots 9 and 14, drawing or tracing a straight line to equal this measurement down from Dot 9.
Dot 18 is this point.
Connect 17 and 18 with a slight downward curve. This front pattern will necessitate piecing, the joins being made an equal distance from either side of center front. The fulness at neck may be tucked to fit the neckband, extending tucks not below depth of armseye measurement, and slanting upwards toward shoulder.
Two inches below hip measurement on center front, make Dot 18.
The center of front is torn or slit from neck to this point.
Make notch at Dot 14, after cutting and allowing for seams as on front pattern of chemise. Cut a small notch also on Dot 8, to indicate where the sleeve joins body of gown.
Match the underarm seams at hip line, also shoulder seams, pinning on right side on traced lines before basting. Make French seams, turning toward center back when finished.
On the right side of placket, a 3/4-inch box pleat is put on, extending two inches below tear and forming a point at the lower end. The center of box pleat should come directly over the seam, half of it lapping to left side. The left front has also a straight piece attached, to form a lap 3/4 inch wide when finished. Cut 1 1/4 inches. Finish box-pleat with buttonholes as in the corset cover.
Turn an inch hem at bottom of gown.