This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
This sampler is made with the lock stitch machine as the chain stitch machine has no binder attachment and also has a more definite right and wrong side, thus making it more complicated to do. However it is not necessary to use a binder attachment for binding a raw edge, and other ways will be explained under the directions for the machine binder. The attachments used for this sampler are the tucker, gage or guide, hemmer, gatherer and binder.
Cut three strips of cloth 12 by 3 inches, one straight and two bias, - the straight with the length on the warp, which can be torn. These strips are joined together with French seams.
A French seam is made by joining two raw edges of cloth on the right side and stitching them as near the edge of the cloth as possible, then turning the material on the wrong side, with the inverted seam on the top edge (which is easiest done by creasing the seam flat before turning on the wrong side), then stitching these two pieces of cloth only deep enough to hide the raw edges of the first seam. From 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch is the depth of the first seam, and it is most important that this seam should be straight before turning for the second seam. Goods that fray may need a deeper seam. A French seam is used for all garments, particularly for underclothes and on sheer materials and is the neatest way of finishing seams. The three strips of cloth used to make the sampler are joined in the following manner: the straight piece is pinned to the bias, without stretching the bias beyond either end of the straight, then basted with an even baste stitch holding the bias piece on top. Join the second bias strip to this bias, pinning and basting in the same manner. Stitch as explained in the French seam.
On the straight piece, 3/4 inch from the long, raw edge, measure and crease a line across the strip for tucking. Fasten the tucker attachment to machine plate. Gage this adjustment until it makes a 1/8-inch tuck and the marker spaces 3/4 inch, marking a straight crease while the first tuck is being stitched.
This crease is to be folded and stitched 1/8 inch for the second tuck, the space marking off 3/4 inch as before.
Make three tucks in this manner.
Before turning wrong side out, crease flat the stitched seam so there will be no folds or ridges when basting this second seam on the wrong side.
On the outer bias strip, 1 1/2 inches from the raw edge, crease as for a tuck the length of strip. Adjust the machine guide attachment, gage it for 3/8 inch, and stitch tuck.
Cut or tear a strip of cloth 20x3 inches for a ruffle. One of these long ends is to be hemmed, the other is to be gathered. Adjust the No. 1 narrow hemmer attachment. The under side of the hemmer foot shows the width of the hem. To start the edge in the hemmer, fold the end about an inch so that it may readily slip into the adjustment. Stitch this ruffle. Remove the hemmer and adjust the gatherer attachment.
The gatherer attachment can be regulated to gather any fulness desired to the inch. This 20-inch ruffle must be gathered to fit the 12-inch edge of the straight strip. Test the gatherer attachment by increasing or decreasing the fulness of gathers with the screw until it equals the straight piece.
The ruffle can be gathered and sewed on to straight piece at one stitching, by putting the straight piece underneath and sewing the ruffle on the right side below the tucks.
This seam is covered with a bias band. Cut a strip of same material 3/4 inch wide. Baste this over the gathered side of seam, stitch and turn band over flat. Turn under raw edge making band 1/4 inch wide. Baste down, and stitch as near each edge as possible.
Cut a bias strip 7/8 inch wide, about 30 inches long to bind edges of sampler. Adjust binder attachment.
To put a bias strip into the binder attachment, cut end of strip diagonally and with the stiletto work this end into the attachment. Fold the bias strip with the right hand while stitching, making the fold even, so that the stitching will catch both sides at the same time.
Care must be taken to keep the tucks and seams in their right positions and to allow sufficient fulness in turning the corners.
On the middle strip of cloth write the pupil's last name in as large letters as the space will allow, with an even distance from either end. Stitch this outline on the machine with coarse, black cotton (No. 40). Use white thread on the bobbin and start at end of last letter, working toward the front. Use the embroidery presser foot if the machine contains this attachment, which is a short split foot, and enables the outline to be readily followed.