This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
A cuff 3 inches deep has been allowed on draft. A wider or narrower cuff may be used by deducting the desired depth from the full length sleeve.
Three inches above Dot 11, and Dot 3, mark Dots 12 and 13 as illustrated, connect them with a slight downward curve on top or upper side of draft, and a slight upward curve on under side. Cut pattern or cloth on these lines.
One inch from center of sleeve, on under side, make a warp cut, 3 inches long. This is the placket, which has an under and over-lap attached. For under side, cut a warp strip 3 inches long, and 1 inch wide (allow for seams) to make a 1/2-inch finished lap when folded, and sew as on preceding plackets.
For upper or opposite edge, cut an over-lap like illustration, 3 inches on short side, and 4 inches to point. Allow 1/4 inch for seams on all edges. Fold over on right side to cover short lap, and turn under raw edges. Stitch as illustrated, letting stitching below point on over-lap, catch the top edge of under-lap.
Join sleeves on right side, matching notches at elbow, for French seams.
Cuff: The length of cuff should equal the hand measurement.
Cut paper pattern the hand measurement by twice the depth of cuff desired, to avoid seams, or two pieces, the correct depth.
Line with crinoline, Indian head or heavy cotton cloth, cut on warp, and basted to the outside, before folding.
Fold lengthwise on wrong side with interlining over fold, and stitch short ends, making round or square corners.
Turn in raw edges to make cuff 3 inches deep, turn right side out, pulling out corners smoothly. Baste ends and folded edge.
Fit bottom of sleeve to under edge of cuff, with no gathers on either side of sleeve seam.
Pin and baste closely, then fold top part of cuff over raw edges.
Baste and stitch twice all around the edges, the width of the presser-foot apart.
If buttons are used on cuffs, sew on under side near edge of stitching, cutting buttonhole with the length of cuff. Work fan end on outside, and bar end on opposite end.
A very small button and buttonhole are sewed on the under and over-lap to hold cuff closely.
To break the severity of the plain front, a square or round pocket may be stitched on left side.
Bind top edge with bias strip, or fold over to any shape desired, and turn under raw edges before attaching.
Baste in place, making top edge even with depth of armseye, and in center of space.
Press shirt waist, sleeves first, then back, and the fronts last.
Use starched water for dampening.
Attach name and date of pupil to finished article.