Carl H. Clark

The boat illustrated is similar in style and shape to the fast steamers running on the ocean. It is designed to be 50" long on top, 8" wide and 6" deep at the low-est^point and should draw about 3" of water when in trim. She is straight along the bottom to the point where the stem begins to slope upwards; this point is 8"from the bow. The overhang at the stern from the sternpost is 3". The length of the stern above the keel is 6 6 1/2" and that of the bow is 8".

The shapes of five sections are given 10" apart, numbers 2 and 3 are alike, 1 and 4 may be scaled from the sketch by using the given scale and a pair of small dividers. The sides amidships should have a slope towards the middle of about 1/8" from the waterline up that is, she should be about i" narrower on deck than at the waterline. The waterline forward should be quite sharp and at the stern should be rather more rounded. The best way of getting at just the shape under the stern would be to go and observe some steamer. In this way one could get a far more accurate idea than could possibly be given by any dis-cription.

The method of construction of the hull is the same as that given in the articles on the sailing models, except that it will probably be impossible to obtain a single piece of timber large enough, and several thicknesses will have to be glued together to get the necessary depth. Considerable labor in hollowing out will be saved by sawing a piece out of the centre of each lift before gluing together. The gluing must be very carefully done to stand water, the surfaces of the lifts must be smooth and even and they must be pressed closely together while the glue is drying. The model should not be hollowed out to less than 1" thick as some wood must be left to give the necessary strength and give surface for the glue to stick to.

The opening for the propeller is about 1 1/2" wide and 3" high, and should be cut out after the model is finished outside. Along the dotted lines at the stern, a round swelling should be left about 3/4" in diameter, to allow the shaft to come through. The sternpost is made of a separate piece joined to the rest on the diagonal lines shown. The rudder may be of either wood or metal, about 2" wide. The small bulwark forward is made of two pieces of thin wood about 3/4" high and is put on afterwards. The deck should be of about J" stock and should be set in carefully so as to be flush with the upper surface of the hull. It should have a slight forward curve. It will be best not to fasten the deck in firmly until the machinery has been fitted. The deckhouse is about 24" long, and 5" wide and 1 1/2" high, so shaped as to make space between it and the side of the boat even all the way around. This deckhouse may best be a sort of box built up out of thin stock, to be light. The top should extend over about i" at the sides and J" on the ends.

The house should be removable and should fit over a little ledge built on the deck. This ledge will hold it in position and keep water out. Some means must be used to fasten it on securely. This allows the examination and adjustment of the machinery, as the deck is cut away under the house. The pilothouse is about 5" long, 4" wide and 1 3/8" high, fastened on the top of the main house. The masts are |" diameter at deck, about 18" long, and are stayed as shown. The foremast extends down to the bottom of the hull, but the mainmast will land on some kind of brace built up over the propeller shaft. The stack is 6" long and above house 2" diameter, rolled up out of tin and painted black. It is fastened to the deckhouse and should extend dowu over the outlet of the boiler, to carry off the heat.

If it is intended to float the model in water it must be very carefully painted inside and outside. The general details, such as rails, hatches, and rigging can best be figured after a visit to some vessel, or a scrut-ing of pictures of vessels. There are several other methods of building a model if one is expert enough. A model of this size could easily be planked upon mould in the same manner as a large boat. They are also sometimes made of paper, thin sheet metal, or other material. A railing of wire should be carried around the model, starting from the small bulwark forward as shown by the dotted line.

The house holes are carefully bored and finished. If desired, batches can be made in the deck about 4" x 4", and fitted with covers. A great many details may be worked in if desired, small anchors and chains may be made or purchased. A steering gear may be devised, small metal veatilators may be fitted. Derricks may be fitted on the masts, small boats can oe placed on the deckhouse, and numerous other additional things will suggest themselves as the work progresses. We have seem models of this size which when well fitted up, were worth considerable money. The description of a steam turbine of proper size for this boat is given in this issue, and a model steam engine is being prepared.