After the wheel is turned to the required shape the' slots for the buckets must be made in the rim. If one has a milling machine or a lathe arranged for plain milling, the work is very easy. Most amateurs will be under the necessity of marking off the divisions with dividers and cutting the slots with a hack saw. The divisions should be marked off very carefully and the saw held at right angles to the rim of the wheel when used. After the slots are cut in the wheel and the buckets formed and trimmed they must be soldered in position. Place the wheel flat on a level surface and set the buckets in place. If the slots have been cut with a hack saw the thickness of the metal of the bucket will not fill it up. In that case small pieces of sheet brass can be cut and set in at the front of the bucket. When the buckets are all in place wrap a piece of iron wire around the outer ends to hold them securely while being soldered. In soldering, a flame can be used direct on the wheel, or it can be done with a tinsmith's copper. Do not use a large quantity of solder. All that is required is to lock the buckets while their tops are being turned off to nearly the diameter of the inside of the flat brass ring which is to surround them.

Before the buckets are turned off, the wheel should be placed in a permanent position on the shaft. The ends of the shaft should not be turned down to the size of the bearings, however, until the wheel and buckets are entirely finished. The flat ring surrounding the buckets is made from a piece of three inch brass tubing about 1-16" in thickness. This should be placed on a block of wood which is held in the jaws of the lathe chuck, or fastened to the face plate, and trued up to a width of 7-16" inch.

In turning down the tops of the buckets use a sharp pointed tool and take very light cuts. Turn them down until the flat ring can be almost forced on, then" lay the wheel down on a flat surface, heat the ring evenly all around and it will expand sufficiently to drop over the tops of the buckets. It this is carefully done no soldering of buckets to the ring will be necessary. The shaft and wheel are again mounted in the lathe and the wheel carefully turned all over, us. ing a very pointed tool and taking very light cuts. This should put the wheel in perfect balance. Lastly, turn the ends of the shaft to the dimensions shown in Fig. 6. When the shaft and wheel are complete and supported lightly between centres, they should stand in any position in which they are placed. Should the wheel revolve it would indicate that one side of the wheel is heavier than the opposite side. In this case, it will he necessary to balance it by adding a little to the lighter side or drilling a few small holes in the rim of the heavier side.

The casing of the turbine consists of a piece of 3 1/2" brass tubing about 1-16" thick shown in Fig. 8. Into each end of this tubing a head is fitted. The tubing should be forced on a wood mandrel turned to tightly fit its inside diameter. Both ends should be trued up parallel, leaving the length of the tubing 11-16". To the lower side of this tube is attached a base, Fig. 9. The upper part of this base is ;urned out, or carefully filed, to fit the outer curve of the tubing. A boss is cast on one end of the base, and is drilled out to fit the exhaust oipe. Where the drill comes through, an elongated hole will be formed on the top curve of the base. A corresponding hole should be marked out and cut through the side of the tubing, and after the four holes in the feet are drilled the two pieces are soldered together.

The two heads for the casing cannot be made from the same pattern without a considerable waste of material and extra work. For the head on the "steam" side of the turbine, Fig. 10, the pattern should be made with a straight hub for a chuck piece, as indicated by the dotted lines. This is for the purpose of holding the casting firmly in the chuck while it is turned to fit the tubing; the inside surface turned off; the oil reservoir finished ; and the \" hole for the bearing bored through. All these operations must be done at on a setting; i. e. the castings must not be disturbed in the chuck until all these operations are finished. This is absolutely necessary in order that the parts shall all "line up " when the work is completed.

The 1/4" hole for the bearing should not be made by starting a i" drill and cutting the hole while the work revolves, for the hole would, in all probability, run crooked. Start with a smaller drill, say 3-16", and when that has been put through, use a small boring tool in the slide rest of the lathe and true up the hole, taking repeated cuts until it is almost to the required size, then run a J" reamer through to finish it. The outside diameter of the head should be left a trifle larger than the 3 1/2" as it will add to the appearance of the finished model.

When cutting out the oil reservoirs turn out the groove for the brass washer shown in Fig. 11. This washer is to be soldered in place, but this must not be done until the oil ring for the bearing, Fig. 12, has been placed in the aperture and the screw holes of the heads drilled as will be explained later. After finishing the inside of the head it can be reversed in the chuck and held by the inside surface of the flange while the extra part of the chuck piece, shown in dotted lines, is cut away and the end squared up. Two holes are to be drilled into the oil reservoir, one above for the purpose of supplying oil, and the one below to be used to drain the reservoir. They should be drilled with a No. 42 twist drill and tapped with a No. 4- 36 tap. Machine screws can be used to stop these holes when the model is in operation.