John F. Adams

While the illustration of the sideboard here shown may give one the impression that it is a very plain piece of furniture, it will be found by anyone making it that the design and general appearance will be quite satisfactory. Of course the wood, quartered oak, should be carefully selected, all joints well made, and the staining so done that the markings of the grain will be brought out to the best advantage.

The framework for the top, containing the mirror, 40 x 16 in., is made separately from the under or cabinet part. A wooden panel may also be substituted for the mirror, but as the mirror adds much to the appearance, this is not recommended.

For the corner posts four pieces 40 1/2 in. long and 1 3/4 in. square are required. Mortises are cut for the cross pieces of the end panels, the lower ones being located to bring the under edge of the cross piece 7 1/2 in. from the floor and the top edge of the upper ones flush with the top. The mortises are 3 in. long, 1/2 in. wide and 1 in. deep, and cut to bring the outer edges 1/2 in. from the outer edges of the posts. Grooves 1/4 in. wide and deep are cut for the edges of the panels, which are made of stock 1/4 in. thick and with their outer sides 1/2 in. from the outer edges of the posts. The cross pieces are 21 1/2 in. long and 7/8 in. thick; the upper ones 5 1/2 in. wide, and the lower ones 4 1/2 in. wide, these lengths allowing 7/8 in. on each end for tenons. Grooves are cut for the ends of the panels. The lines for the mortises and grooves should be laid out with a marking gauge to ensure close fitting joints. The panels are 23 in. long, 19 1/2 in. wide and 1/4 in. thick, these dimensions giving a slight allowance for trimming.

The cross piece under the silver closet is 33f in. long, 3 in. wide at the ends, 2 in. wide at the narrow part, and 7/8 in. thick. The wider ends may be secured by gluing on short pieces curved on the inner ends, as shown. Frames are made of 7/8 in. stock to go between the silver closet and lower drawer, between the two drawers and above the upper drawer, those under the drawers having an oak front piece and forming the runs for the drawers. These frames should have mortise and tenon joints and be fitted around the posts, sawing into the latter a little to take the corners of the frames, thus adding stiffness to the construction. The floor of the silver closet is made by gluing up two 3/4 in. brads, the upper sides of which should be flush with the top edge of the cross piece, and the inner edge set in 1/2 in. to allow space for the back panelling. A similar allowance for the back panelling should be made with the frames above mentioned.

The top is 48 in. long, 24 in. wide and 7/8 in. wide and 7/8 in. thick owing to the width; it will have to be glued up from two pieces. Care should be taken to secure a good match on the grain and color of stock used. A neat moulding is run around the under side, as shown. It is fastened by screws put up through the upper frame. The two small drawers are 20 in. long, 4 1/2 in. deep and 21 in. from front to back. A division piece 7/8 in. thick is placed between the two upper frames and nailed in plaee before putting on the top.

The large drawer is 41 in. long, 7 1/2 in. deep and and 22 in. wide. Strips will have to be placed on the frames, at the outer edges of the drawers to keep the latter in place when being pushed in.

The two doors are 15 1/2 in. high and 20 1/2 in. wide, the stiles and rails being made of § in. stock, 2 1/2 in. wide, with a 1/4 in, groove for the panel. The panels are 16 x 14 x 1/4 in., with V markings 2 1/2 in. apart to represent matched strips, or matched stock 2 1/2 in. wide may be used. In hanging the doors, they should be set in about 1/4 in., a stop block being glued to the bottom of the closet to hold the inner ends at the right place. The usual catches and knobs are added. A thin strip is is placed on the door at the right, to cover the crack.

The framework for the top part requires two front corner posts 23 in. long, and two back ones 29 in. long, all being 1 3/4 in. square. The two cross pieces at each end are 2 in. wide, 1 1/4 in. thick and 22 in. long, allowing for 7/8 in. on each end for tenons. The lower cross pieces are 2 in. above the top of the cabinet, and the upper ones 1 7/8 in. below the top of posts. The corner posts of the top part should fit exactly over those of the lower part, and are attached thereto by 1/2 in. dowels, the holes for same being bored in the top board of the cabinet when the top part is completed. The tops of the posts are bevelled slightly. The shelf over the mirror is 43 1/2 in. long, 19f in. wide at the ends, and cut in with an easy curve to 12 in. wide. The frame for the mirror is made with mitred corners, the top and bottom pieces being 2 in. wide and the end pieces 11 1/4 in. wide. A rabbet 1/4 in. square is cut for the mirror, the latter being well protected at the back, first by a layer of thick paper and then back with well fitted picture backing. The board at the back of the shelf is 5 in. wide, 3/4 in. thick and 42 in. long, allowing 1/2 in. at each end to fit into grooves cut in the corner posts. A plate guard 1 in. wide, 1/2 in. thick and 45 in. long is placed at the top, as shown. The detail of making the drawers, and some other minor matters is not given here, as such work has been quite fully covered in previous articles.