N. S. Tinker

In presenting the following instructions for the rapid etching of zinc printing plates, it is the intention to make them as clear as possible, bo that even a novice can easily produce a good printing plate with very little practice.

The first process considered will be outline cuts. These are much the quickest and easiest to make.

Procure a piece of ordinary tinner's or, better, engrav-ers' zinc, polish it thoroughly with powdered pumice stoneor engraver's charcoal, andawet cloth, being careful to remove all grease and stain. Then draw the required design on the zinc with a mixture of fine, black job printing ink, three parts, and oil of sassafrass, one part, using a No. 1 Spencerian pen for the purpose. You can fill in the heavy places with a camel's hair pencil. All straight lines across the face or "background " may be drawn by elevating the rule at both ends; a short piece of printers'column rule maybe used nicely for drawing. You can determine whether the ink is too thick or too thin by trying it on a separate piece of zinc. If the ink is of the right consistency you will be unable to make quick strokes. Should there be too much oil in the ink the lines will spread when heat is applied to the plate.

When the drawing is finished to your satisfaction powder with a mixture of powdered asphaltum, two parts, and powdered dragon's blood, one part. This must be very fine to produce good results. After thoroughly powdering the lines drawn, dust off the superfluous powder, brush in all directions with a soft camel's hair brush and the design will appear as clear as before the powder was applied.

Heat the plate by holding it over lamp, gas jet or on stove top, until the lines turn black or until the ink fuses the powder onto the zinc. The correct heat will be indicated by a slight smoking of the powder.

Varnish the back of the plate with asphaltum varnish made thin with beuzine or shellac. Uee a quill brush for the purpose, and let the plate bry thoroughly.

Put the plate into a glass or porcelain dish into which has been put a mixture of one part of commercial nitric acid and ten parts of water. Have the acid thoroughly mixed with the water before immersing the plate. Move the dish so as to produce a washing or rocking motion, and let the acid eat the plate until you see the finest lines are being eaten away.

Wash plate off, remove from bath and rinse thoroughly in water; clean face with alcohol. With a roller put a coat of black printing ink on a piece of cardboard and lay face of plate on it and apply an even pressure. When the lines are well mixed, powder as before, brush in all directions, which will cause the powder to sheer to all sides of the lines; then heat as before directed.

Before immersing in the acid solution again, protect the fine lines that have been sufficiently etched by giving them a coating of asphaltum varnish. Etch about one-half through the plate, then re-ink, powder and heat as before. Use a heavier coat of ink this time to protect the sides. After etching nearly through the plate, rinse, clean face with alcohol, and back with benzine. A drop or two of the potash solution mentioned farther on will readily cut the composition on the face. Be careful not to injure face while cleaning. It is advisable to rub with ball of the fingers when cleaning. Trim plate close to lines, saw a block to size required and with a piece of soft paper between, glue plate to block with a thin coating of strong glue containing a small quantity of alcohol. When dry re-remove large open places and sink the smaller if necessary. This kind of cut can also be fastened to the base with small brads.

To make a lithotint cut, which is much easier than the outline cuts, follow the same instructions except that before fusing (heating the plate) you deposit a fine dust of asphaltum and dragon's blood on the plate by making a box thirty inches high and about eight inches square; have a door about four inches from bottom and across one side and even with the bottom of door stretch a few wires to act as a shelf for the loose-fitting slide on which you put the plate. Put about four ounces of the powdered asphaltum dragon's blood mixture in the box and, after shaking it from end to end several times, open the door and insert the slide containing plate. Withdraw in about eight seconds and, if not satisfactory, brush plate and try again. A heavy shower of dust will bear deeper etching than light showers.

After the dust particles have deposited themselves evenly on the plate, fuse as in the outline cuts. By re-inking the lithotint plate once, as described for outline cuts, you will avoid ever having a blurred lithotint cut on your press. Owing to the quickness with which these cuts can be made they are of special value to printers who are located where engravers are not readily accessible, and with a little experience you can imitate a half-tone surprisingly well. A border should always be used around lithotint cuts, as it adds much to the appearance.

Select the cut or matter to be reproduced, put in a job-press, take a heavy and well-inked impression with a good, black job ink on unsized paper, lay face down on zinc and subject to heavy pressure. Remove paper, and if the quantity of ink on paper was sufficient you will notice the design or letters distinctly transferred to zinc. Powder and etch as previously described. There is more or less difficulty in reproducing from type smaller than a bold-face 12-point or from a high-grade engraving drawn in fine, close lines, as this process is not intended for work, although good results may be obtained by persistent efforts.

To make a transfer to zinc of a cut, etc., which has been printed on an ordinary paper with news or job ink, first go over the pages with a solution of two parts caustic potash and three parts of alcohol. Then immediately immerse in the etching bath. Let it soak thoroughly, then remove from bath and absorb loose fluid with blotters, lay face down on the zinc and with a piece of stereotyper's cloth on top, subject to heavy pressure, using a paper cutter clamp or copying press to get sufficient pressure. Then proceed as described. Photographs, and the like, which will not transfer as above, will have to be gone over with the tracing ink and then transfered.

To make a plate of manuscript, or other written matter, transfer to zinc in the ordinary way, trace with the prepared ink and proceed as usual. Sometimes, when the manuscript is very old, it is necessary to go over it with India ink to make it transfer. By means of a photograph a tracing can be made and quickly transferred to zinc. Judgment should be exercised in fusing a lithotint cut, because, should you burn the powder its then easily affected by the acid in the bath. After transferring, should any particles of paper remain in the zinc let them dry, and remove by carefully rubbing with a soft, clean cloth. Keep all the chemicals fresh and clean and, when not in use, in tight stoppered bottles. The bath wastes away in open air and has to be renewed frequently when in use. In etching, as in other vocations, he that would attain to eminence must persevere and he who "tries again " is soon cognizant of the fact that "Success " is a companion to '"Diligence." This process of engraving opens up a new vocation for the young people, and where newspapers are published there is a constant demand for illustrations of current events.