At the bow it is drawn around and tacked to the face of the stern, while aft it is drawn over the curved part and tacked in the same manner; at the stern it is drawn over and tacked around just inside of the stern-board, and not to the ends of the planking, as it would tend to pull them out of place. No tacks should be driven in the body of the canvas, as if it is properly stretched out it will be tight on the plank. The surplus canvas is now to be trimmed off about 1/4 in. outside the line of tacks, using a sharp knife and a guider the rows of tacks should be nicely smoothed off, as mouldings are to be fitted to cover them, which must lie smoothly.

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The outside should now be painted two or three coats, allowing time between for each coat to dry thoroughly; after this treatment the canvas should be firm and solid. Especial care must be taken to thoroughly fill around the tacks. The inside should now be treated with two coats of shellac, rubbing it well into the cracks. It would even be well to have given the inside a coat of shellac before bending in the frames, as then there would be no bare spots under the frames.

The stem, hull and deadwood are next to be fitted according to the plan of Fig. 6 and 7. The keel is straight, the curved piece of deadwood filling in the space between it and the boat. The stem is bent and joined to the keel as shown. The deadwood should be fitted first; the pattern may be taken from the original full size drawing, but some allowance must be made for fitting as there may have been a slight change in the shape. It must be a good fit, as otherwise it will be impossible to fasten it securely. It is 1 1/2 in. thick in the small boat and 2 in. in the larger one.

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Referring to Fig. 1, there will be noticed a curved dotted line at the after end of the deadwood; this is the shape for the power boat, to allow clearance for the propeller, as also shown in Fig. 6. The shaft hole would best be bored before fastening in place. It is about 1 in. in diameter; no specific directions can be given as to its direction as this will be governed by the style of engine. It is, however, 4 1/4 in. above the base line on the other end of the deadwood. This hole must be accurately bored and, on account of its length, an extra long auger will be required.

To do this the deadwood is set up and firmly fastened in a convenient position and the boring carefully done, sighting both ways during the operation. It is well to begin boring at both ends, as any irregularity in the middle is not important and may be smoothed out by burning with a hot iron rod. It may be continued through the keel after the deadwood is fastened into place. The deadwood may now be fastened on, using brass screws driven from the inside except at the point, where a few flat head nails should be used. Each screw should be dipped in white lead before driving, as then it draws up tighter and is less likely to leak where it passes through the canvas. In the 12 ft. boat, a few screws can be driven up through the thin after end into the inner keel.

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The outer keel is 1 1/2xlf in. for the small boat, and 2x2 in. for the large one, and in a straight length. At the forward end it runs out as shown to about 1/4 in. the stem being notched down in order not to leave a feather edge. Amidships the keel is fastened by brass screws driven from inside, and aft it is screwed to the deadwood. The vertical piece on the after end of the deadwood shown in Fig. 5 is of the same thickness as the deadwood and in. deep; it is notched, into the keel as shown, and extends the full depth of the stern board; its object is to stiffen the deadwood. The deadwood may be thinned down on the after end to about 1 in. thick.

The outer stem is in. thick and wide enough to cover the face of the stem. Its forward edge is tapered to in. to receive the stem band. It is well steamed and bent to shape, allowed to cool and then fitted and fastened in place with brass screws.

The rows of tack heads must now be covered with half round mouldings; of the same material as the top streak. These mouldings are in. diameter for the tender and 7/8 in. for the launch, half round. On the stm a piece of sheet brass, or even sheet lead shoulde be bent around over the tack heads and neatly fastened.

The floor board for the tender is of in. pine about 8 in. wide, tapered at the ends to fit the shape of the boat. It rests upon the deep floor timbers already in place, and will require to be sprung down into place. It should be fastened with screws, so as to be easily removable. Just outside of the floor board one or more strips about 3 in. wide should be fitted to give additional foot space and protect the skin of the boat. Foot braces are to be fitted for each seat similar to Fig. 8, the side pieces being in. thick and the cross pieces 3/4xl 1/2 in. The rowlock blocks are of oak thick and 8 in. long, shaped to the curve of the side, bevelled as shown, and fastened in place with slim screws to the upper edge of gunwale and top streak. The best position for these can best be ascertained by trial. The rowlocks used should not be the socket pattern which necessitates the cutting of a large hole in the block and gunwale, but should be of the plate pattern, fastening on the top of the block. Rubbing strips are to be fitted on the bilge to take the wear when the boat is pulled out on a float or wharf. They should be about x 1 in. and 4 or 5 ft. long, very firmly fastened through with nails, as any movement of these strips will tear the canvas and cause a leak.