John F. Adams

The library table here described has a substantial, dignified appearance which makes it well suited for the service for which it was designed, and at the same time the simple construction permits of it being made by any one who can use woodworking tools with ordinary skill. The illustration shows a plain wood top, but a covering of Spanish leather fastened With large headed nails to match the leather, adds much to the appearance - and also the cost.

A Library Table 139

The top is 48 x30 x 1 1/2 in. and will have to be glued up from two or three pieces. The stock should be dressed down at the mill on a jointer from 2-in. stock, to take out all wind, and should be thoroughly seasoned. The grain should be carefully matched at the joints, and the latter should be even throughout their length.

The ends are made as follows: The top pieces are 28 in. long, 3| in. wide and 1 3/4 in. thick. The ends are cut out to the shape shown in the illustration, which is first marked out to the following dimensions: One inch from the upper edge mark horizontal lines 1 in. long; on the lower edge 3 1/4 in. from the ends mark vertical lines 1/2 in. long; connect the ends of these lines with a line at 45°, and saw out to shape. As the shoulders make sawing by hand rather difficult, holes can be bored along the angle and the cutting done with a chisel.

For the bottom of each end will be needed one piece 28 in. long, 8| in. wide and If in. thick, and one piece 11 1/2 in. long. The latter piece is cut into two pieces, each with one edge 7 1/2 in. long, which is the upper edge. In the long piece make a cut 1/2 in. deep on the upper edge 3| in. from the end; then make a 45° cut from the lower corner to the end of the first cut. The two short pieces are then glued to the ends of the latter piece. The gluing up should not be done until after the mortises are cut for the vertical pieces.

The vertical pieces are all 10 in. long and 1 1/2 to-thick ; the two outer pieces are 2 in. wide, and the center piece 20 in. wide, the spaces between being 3 in. wide. The lengths given allow for tenons 7/8 in. long on each end, which should be cut to give a 1/4 in. shoulder all around, and the mortises of a size to match.

The shelf across the foot is 31 in. long, 10 in. wide and 1 1/2 in. thick, the length allowing for tenons 1/2 in. long at each end. A wide shoulder can be given these tenons, so that they are $ in. thick and 6 in. wide, making the work of cutting the mortises for them as little as possible. Two screws are put through each end to hold the shelf in place, the heads being deeply countersunk and covered with buttons glued in.

The two wide pieces at the ends are shown plainiy in the illustration. If desired they may be ornamented by holes cut at the center with an expansive bit. Scribe with the dividers a circle 4 1/4 in. in diameter, mark four points in the circumference and use these points as centers to bore holes 3 in. diameter. The points where the circles join are smoothed up with a file. A little more elaborate figure can be made in the same way. Draw a light center line and mark 11 1/4 in, from each end. On these points scribe circles A\ in. diameter, and mark off three points in the circumference at the two sides, using these as centers to bore 3 in. holes. On each side of the center line mark off 1 in. and draw lines connecting the two sets of holes and then cut out with a compass saw.

As the stock used for this table is rather heavy, mahogany would be the most suitable wood to use, and would make the best appearance, but red gumwood finished with a dark red stain would look well and be much less expensive to make.