Carl H. Clark

The skiff herein described is arranged to be easily knocked down for stowage or transportation. Its length is 10 ft. and its beam 3 ft. 8 in. easily carrying four people. When knocked down it stows into a package 3ft. 8 in. square and about 1 ft. 6 in. deep.

This kind of boat is very desirable for yacht tenders, as it may be taken apart and stowed in the cockpit on a long run, or in a heavy sea, thus relieving the yacht of the drag or the liability of the loss of the tender by swamping. For camping or fishing parties it is especially valuable, as it may be transported in a team along with the other dunnage.

It should be a matter of about five minutes to put it together, and somewhat less to take it apart.

The general shape and construction is similar to the nine foot skiff previously described, but is of somewhat lighter construction for the special purpose of making it light for ease in handling. As will be noted in Fig. 1 the boat is divided into three portions by cross partitions, forming three separate sections which are held together in a manner to be described and which, when taken apart, may bestowed one inside of another. The oars, also, are jointed and stow with the other portions

The boat may be built of pine, cypress or any other light stock. The sides are 3/8 in. thick and should, if possible, be in a single width of 15 in. and 16 1/2 ft. long.

The bottom is 5/8 in. thick and is put on crosswise. The sternboard is 3/8 in. thick and the cross partitions are 5/8 in. Fig. 7 shows the actual shape of the sides before bending. The boards should be cut to this shape and stiffened temporarily by three or four cleats to prevent their splitting while being bent into shape.

Figs. 4, 6, 6 show the shapes of the sternboard and partitions. These are gotten out from the proper stock two of each of the partitions. One of each of the partitions and the sternboard are now set up and the sides bent around. The stem is of spruce about 2 in. square and is fitted into the forward angle of the sides; the partitions should stand in the proper positions, exact, ly vertical and their lower edges 1/2 in. above the lower edge of the sides. The two partitions just fitted are A and C, the end partitions of the middle compartment, and should be 3 ft. 8 in. from outside to outside; the bevel must be correct for the sides, and they must fit neatly. The remaining two partitions, B and I) are now to be fitted adjoining those already in place, to form the ends of bow and stern compartments. They must be very neatly fitted about 1-16 in. away from those already in place, to allow the insertion of a saw for cutting the sections apart.

Corner pieces of oak 1 in. square, as shown at a a are now to be fitted in the inside corners of the partition A and C and fastened well with 1 1/2 in. galvanizea wire nails driven both through the sides and the partitions. Boat nails should not be used on account of their size and tendency to split. When the partitions B and D have been fitted in place the corner pieces b b are to be fitted. The partitions B and D are now to be removed and the corner pieces fastened on to them. The partitions are then put into place with a 1 16in. strip of board or paper between them and the others and well fastened. Light corner pieces should also be fastened in the corner between the sides and the stern-board.

The boat is now turned over and the lower corner cleats c c c are fitted; they are 1/2|xl in., bevelled to the proper angle and bent around 1/2 in. above the lower edge of the sides; they fit neatly between the corner braces, which are cut off flush with their lower edges. Corner pieces d d, Figs. 1 and 8, of the same size, are also fitted on the lower edges of the cross partitions and sternboards to give adeitional bearing for the bottom plank.

The bottom boards are now ready to be fitted, beginning at the ends and working towards the middle; at the bow the boards should extend to the extreme corner, the stem being cut off to allow this. The bottom boards lie between the sides and the corner strips before fastening.

The ribs are of pine lx5/8 in; they are notched at the lower end to fit over the corner pieces c. as shown in Fig. 3. They are placed as shown in Fig. 1 and are fastened from the outside with the exception of one nail in the lower end, which is driven from the inside; these ribs prevent the sides from splitting and stiffen them.

The gunwales are 1$ 1/2x5/8 in. and are fitted as shown in Figs 1 and 8, on the inside of the ribs and corner pieces; these are, of course, put in in three pieces be tween the partitions. They should be steamed, or at least wet with hot water before bending in, as they are depended upon to preserve the curve of the sides c c c, thus making a double joint which in very strong and tight. Fig. 9 shows how the nails should be driven; m and n should be at close intervals, about 2 1/2 in, p should be about 3 in, apart and o about 4 in. apart, as they are merely put in to prevent the sides being split by the number. The bottom boards should be put on in widths of about 8 in. It is advised that the boards be so arranged that a joint will occur between the partitions, thus avoiding the necessity of sawing the bottom and also of giving a good guide for driving the nails into the partitions.

The last board to be fitted should be at the widest part; owing to the under bevel it will be necessary to spring the sides slightly to get it in; this can be easily-done if the adjoining boards be left loose until the last is in place. All joints should be well filled with lead after cutting. For fastening these gunwales in place, copper nails should be used, which should be bored for, and clinched over burrs on the inside. Brass or galvanized angles should also be fitted as shown. At the bow a wooden breast hook should be fitted, and at the stern a wooden knee, as shown in Fig. 1.

A Sectional Skiff 259

It is advisable, if possible, to allow the boat to lie a few days before cutting apart, to allow the curved parts to partially set into place and thus reduce the tendency to straighten. In the meantime the bottom stiffeners, outside and inside, may be fitted, of 1/2 in. stock, 4 in. wide; they are through fastened and clinched. The false stem s, Fig. 10, is now to be fitted, the boards having been simply lapped on the sides of of the stem. The false bottom should extend 1/4 in. be-low the bottom, the bottom stiffener butting against it.

The partitions should be cut down as shown in Fig. 8 to increase the inside room, and the edges bevelled off. A piece of oak half round moulding about | in. diameter should be run around the outside even with the gunwale and well fastened with brass screws. A screw should be driven closely on each side of each joint to prevent the moulding from springing off when cut.

Four 5-16 in. holes should be bored in each pair of partitions, as shown in Fig. 8, for the bolts which hold the sections together.

The sides should now be cut, the sections separated and the ends smoothed up.

The seat supports, S Fig. 3, are 1 1/2 in. wide by 1/2 in. thick, and are bent around on the inside of the frames; the upper edge being 5 in. below the gunwale. They are fitted in all three sections.

The whole should now be given a coat of priming paint, except the gunwale and half round, which may be coated with shellac. To fasten the sections together, three 5 16 in. bolts, 2 1/2 in. long under the head, will be required; they shoul dbe fitted with thumb nuts and two washers each. To prevent leakage around the bolts, soft rubber washers are inserted under the iron washers.

Rowlock blocks and sockets are fitted in the posi. tions shown; the after pair are intended for use when one or three persons are in the boat, and the forward pair when occupied by two people; the blocks are about 8 in. long and are fastened to gunwale and top of planks with screws. For rowlocks any desired pattern may be used.

The seats, with the exception of that in the bow, are loose, but may be held in place by notches fitting over the frames. The bow seat should be permanent and be fitted with a locker underneath for the stowage of the rowlocks, bolts, etc., during shipment.

The oars should be of spruce 6 1/2 ft. long. When used as a tender they need not be jointed, but for camping or fishing purposes they should be furnished with a joint consisting of two pieces of brass tubing, fitting closely, one inside of the other, the inside piece should be about 6 in. long, and the outside one about 12 in.

The oar is cut and the larger pieces fitted to a larger piece of the oar; the smaller piece is then trimmed down to fit inside of the smaller tube; this enables the oar to be jointed together for use. It should be so cut that the two portions are of equal length after the tubes are fitted.

A strong eye should be provided inside at the bow for the painter.

The whole should now be given two coats of paint inside and outside; all seams should be rilled with putty, and if of any size, a thread of cotton may be forced in with the edge of a putty knife.

When joined together this boat should be as tight and satisfactory as an ordinary skiff, with the addi. tional advantage of the sectional construction.