By Courtesy of the Brooks Boat Mfg. Co.

Construction will begin with the keel. Mark out with pattern, marking lines across the keel at the places where the moulds come, being careful to get them exactly in place.

If the keel has been made in two pieces it is spliced by putting a butt block on the top side as shown in Fig. 2. This butt block is of oak of the same thickness and width of the keel, and about 12 in. long. It is fastened in place with sixteen 1/2 in. tire or carriage bolts, 2 1/4 in. long; or the splice may be fastened with the same number of 1 1/2 in. screws.

The stem and stern keel are cut to shape from the patterns and the two parts are bolted together with carriage or tire bolts, as shown in Fig. 3. Before putting in these bolts, file the heads. Cut the Tabbet in the stem 5/8 in. deep, and make the outer edge of the stem 3/4 in. thick. Fasten the stem-knee to the keel with two tire or carriage bolts, as shown in Fig. 3.

Cut the transom to shape from pattern and cut transom-knee out of oak 1 7/8 in. thick. Fasten the transom to the transom-knee with two bolts, and fasten the transom-knee with two bolts. Fasten the end of the keel to the transom with four 1 1/2 in. wire nails.

The moulds are temporary forms, used to get the shape of the boat; therefore any rough lumber may be used to make them, it being only necessary that their outer edge be exactly the shape of the patterns. The moulds may be made of 4 or 6 in. strips and fastened together as shown in Fig. 5, the corners being cut out to allow of the clamp and bilge stringer laying in so as to be flush with the outside of the mould. There are six moulds in this boat. The patterns only give half of each; that is, the pattern only gives one Bide of the mould, to the center-line, as shown in Fig. 9. You can, however, get all the measurements for the moulds from the patterns, and when the moulds are finished, you can prove them correct by trying the patterns on one side and then turn the pattern over and try it on the other side of each mould.

To set up the frame, set the keel on two horses, as shown in Fig. 1, letting the middle sag down five inches below the ends. Get this accurately by stretching a string over the keel from end to end of the keel and then springing down the keel until it measures 5 in. from the string to the keel, in the middle. Block the keel in this position. Set the moulds on their stations. Then fasten and brace the stem moulds and transom.

There is only one stop-water in this boat, located between the end of the keel and the stem, as shown in Fig. 3.

The clamps are sprung in place in the notches at the top of the moulds. The forward ends of the clamps are beveled and brought together against the back of the stem, as shown in Fig. 8. The two ends of the clamps are fastened together with three 1 1/4 in. No; 12 screws, two of them from one side and one from the other, as shown in Fig. 8. The ends of the clamps are fastened to the stem with two ten penny casing nails, slanted down through the clamps into the stem, as shown.

The after-end of the clamps end against the transom, where they are fastened to cleats. These are 2 in. wide and 1 in. thick, and are nailed to the inside of the transom, 1 5/8 in. from the outer edge as shown in Fig. 9. These cleats may be fastened to the transom with eight or ten 1 1/4 screws. The ends of the clamps are flush with the top of the transom, but are | of an inch from the outer edge of it. This is so that, when the ribs are put in they will come flush with the edge of the transom. The clamps may be temporarily held in place at each mould with a small screw.

On account of the length of your material you will probably have to put each clamp in with two pieces. When this is done the splice is made by putting a butt block, 12 in. long and the same size of the clamp on the outside over the splice, fastening it to the clamp with 1 1/4 in. No. 12 screws.

The bilge-stringers fit into the bottom corners of the moulds, the same as they did into the clamps at the top. The forward end of the bilge stringers are beveled off and fastened to the side of the stem-knee with two 1 1/4 inch screws, as shown in Fig. 10.

The after end of the bilge stringers butt against the transom, and are fastened to the bottom of the cleat the same as the clamps, and when necessary they are spliced in the same way. The end of the bilge stringers come flush with the bottom of the transom, but are 3/4 of an inch, or the thickness of the ribs, inside the outer edge of the transom.

The term ash in chemistry refers to the fixed residue obtained by burning any part of an organized substance in air. Ash usually contains the following metallic and non metallic elements: Potassium, sodium, calcium, barium, iron, manganese, aluminum, copper, zinc. Non-metals: Chlorine, bromine, iodine, phosphorus, sulphur, silicon, carbon.

An Easily Built Power Launch II Construction of Mo 66