By Courtesy of the Brooks Boat Mfg. Co.
III. Planking - Deck - Installing Engine.
The ribs and side timbers are the up and down pieces on the outside, that extend from the bottom of the bilge stringer to the top of the clamp, as shown in Fig. 1. They are spaced 9 in. from center to center of each, and are fastened with two 1 1/4 in. No. 12 screws at each end of each piece. The last two or three ribs on each end are not placed straight up and down, but are swung so as to equally divide the extra space caused by the angle of the stem and transom. These ribs are simply straight pieces and are sawed off flush with the top of the clamp and the bottom of the bilge stringers.
There is one floor timber half way between each of the ribs or side timbers. The floor timbers are fastened on top of the keel in the middle, with two 1 1/2 in. screws to each. The ends of the floor timbers are mortised into the lower edge of the bilge stringers and are fastened with one six penny casing nail at each end, up through the floor timber into the bilge stringer.
Where the floor timbers lay on top of the keel they are slightly flattened with the plane, so as to lay flat on the keel.
In planking, first get out and put on the the top streak. After cutting out one side, use it for a pattern to get out the plank for the opposite side. Apply the plank up to place on the stem, and you can tell just how much to trim out the rabbet to let the plank in flush. Fasten the plank to the stem with three or four 1 1/2 in. clout nails, and to each rib, with three 1 1/2 in. clout nails. Where the plank butt or splice, they are fastened by putting a butt block of oak, 8 inches long and the width of the plank, by 3/4 of an inch thick, on the inside. Fasten the plank to the butt block with one dozen nails. This butt block'is the same as is shown in Fig. 2. Next, put on No. 2 plank, making the seam between each of the plank tight on the inside, and a little open, 1/8 of an inch on the outside for calking. After the top streaksl of planking are on, turn the boat over and, commencing with the bottom plank next to keel, put it on, using 1 3/4 clout nails to fasten the bottom plank to the floor timbers.
Next, put on the outside bottom plank, using same nails; then put on the lower side plank. This is fastened to the ribs with 1 1/2 in. clout nails and the bottom edge is fastened to the outer edge of the bottom with six penny casing nails put through the lower edge .of the plank into the edge of the bottom. This seam between the side and the bottom should be made tight, as it is not to be calked. The casing nails from the side into the bottom are spaced close together, from 1 1/2 to 3 in. apart.
After the boat has been planked, turn it over and put in the deck beams. Saw out seven beams for the forward end from the pattern that shows the greatest crown. Saw out four beams from the after end from the pattern that has the least crown. The deck beams are placed one between each rib, and are fastened to the clamp by mortising out one-half the width of the beam from the bottom of the beam itself. This will let the beam in with its top flush with the top of the clamps, as shown in Fig. 12. The ends of every deck beam are fastened to the clamp with one 2 in. screw.
The decks may be either canvas covered or of natural wood finish. The canvas covered deck is less work to make and is more durable, as the sun and rain will not affect it. A fine varnished deck, finished in natural wood, should not be put on unless the boat is to be well cared for and properly housed.
When the deck is to be canvas covered, it may be made of the waste lumber left from the planking. Cut into strips and lay it on as shown in Fig. 13. It is best not to cut the ends of the deck to shape until after it is fastened in place, then you can easily trim the whole off even with the outside of the boat and the inside of the coaming plate. Round off the sharp edge of the deck on the outside to an oval shape. Set in all nails. Plane and sandpaper the deck smooth. Putty all nail heads and open seams.
The canvas should be 7 or 8 oz. duck. The deck is given a thick coat of paste and the canvas laid on while, it is wet. The paste is made by mixing rye flour with cold water and then scalding it until it thickens. Lay on the canvas and smooth out all wrinkles. Bring the edge of the canvas over the ouside edge and tack it to the top of the sheer-streak with 2-oz. tacks. On the inside the canvas will have to be slit and folded under the coaming plate to which it is tacked. In this way the coaming will cover the inner edge and the fender-wale will cover the outer edge of the canvas, as shown in Fig. 14. Where the strips of canvas join, it may be either stitched together on a sewing machine before it is put on, or each strip tacked as it is laid. When the seams are tacked, use 2 oz. tacks close together - say 1/4 of an in. apart. The canvas deck should be given three coats of paint and be repainted whenever it shows wear.
When the decks are to be finished in natural wood, first let some pieces, two or three in. wide by 3/4 thick, into the top of the deck beams, as shown in Fig. 15. These are to support the ends of the strips that make the deck, and of course should be so located that the inner edge of the covering-board and the ends of the deck will both rest on these pieces which are mortised into the deck beams.