There are some excellent places there for hot summer visits--Ashville, Warm Springs, Franklin, and others.

The Cumberland Mountains, as a whole, are flat, in broad level spaces, broken only by the "divides," or "gulfs," as they are called by the inhabitants, where the streams flow out into the valleys.

Walden's Ridge, of which we come now to speak particularly, is the best located of any part of the Cumberlands as a place for living. From the separation of this ridge from the main range of Grassy Cove to its southern terminus at the Tennessee River, it maintains a remarkably uniform character in every particular. From it access to commerce is easy, having the Tennessee River and the new (now building) Cincinnati Southern Railroad skirting its entire length on the east. It rises very abruptly from both the Tennessee and Sequatchee Valleys, being from 1,200 to 1,500 feet higher than the valleys on each side. Looking from below, on the Tennessee Valley side, the whole extent of the ridge appears securely walled in at the top by a continuous perpendicular wall of sandstone, from 100 to 200 feet high; and from the Sequatchee side the appearance is very similar, excepting that the wall is not so continuous, and of less height.

The top of the ridge is one level stretch of plain, broken only by the "gulfs" before mentioned and an occasional prominent sandstone wall or bowlder. The width on top is, I should judge, 6 or 7 miles. The soil is of uniform character, light, sandy, and less productive for the ordinary crops of the Tennessee farmer than the soil of the lowlands. The grape, apple, and potato grow to perfection, better than in the valleys, and are all never failing crops; so with rye and buckwheat. Corn grows well, very well in selected spots, and where the land is made rich by cultivation. The grasses are rich and luxuriant, even in the wild forests, and when cultivated, the appearance is that of the rich farms of the Ohio or Connecticut Rivers, only here they are green and growing the greater part of the year; so much so that sheep, and in the mild winters the young cattle, live by the wild grasses of the forests the whole year. The great stock raisers of the Sequatchee and Tennessee Valleys make this the summer pasture for their cattle, and drive them to their own farms and barns or to market in winter. The whole Cumberland table, with the exception of that small part which is under cultivation, is one great free, open pasture for all the cattle of the valleys.

Thousands of cattle graze there whose owners never pay a dollar for pasturage or own an acre of the range, though, as a rule, most of the well-to-do stock farmers in the valleys own more or less mountain lands. These lands have, until quite recently, been begging purchasers at from 12½ to 25 cents per acre in large tracts of 10,000 acres and upward, and perhaps the same could be said of the present time, leaving out choice tracts and easily accessible places, which are held at from 50 cents to $2 per acre, wooded virgin lands.

The forest growth of Walden's Ridge is almost entirely oak and chestnut. Hickory, perhaps, comes next in frequency, and pine after. There is but little undergrowth, and where the forests have never been molested there are but few small trees. This is due to the annual fires which occur every autumn, or some time in winter, almost without exception, and overrun the whole ridge. It does not rage like a prairie fire. Its progress is usually slow, the material consumed being only the dry forest leaves and grasses. The one thing essential to its progress is these dry leaves, hence it cannot march into the clearings. Nearly all the small shrubs are killed by these fires, otherwise they are harmless, and are greatly valued by the stock men for the help they render in the growth of the wild grasses. The free circulation of air through these great unbroken forests is certainly much facilitated by these fires, since they destroy every year what would soon become impediments. The destruction of this undergrowth leaves the woods open, and the lands are mainly so level that a carriage may be driven for miles, regardless of roads, through the forests in every direction.

The shrubs about the fields and places where the forests have been interrupted by civilization and other causes are blackberry, huckleberry, raspberry, sumac, and their usual neighbors, with the azalia, laurel, and rhododendron on the slopes and in the shade of the cliffs.

The kinds of wild grasses, I regret to say, I have not noted, and the same of the rich and varied display of wild flowers.

The whole ridge is well supplied with clean, soft running water, even in the driest of the season. There are no marshes, swamps, or bogs, no still water--not even a "puddle" for long--for the soil is of such a character, that surface water quickly filters away into the sands and mingles with the streams in the gulfs. Springs of mineral water are abundant everywhere. Probably there is not a square mile of Walden's Ridge which does not furnish chalybeate water abundantly. Sulphur springs with Epsom salts in combination are nearly as common.

The entire extent of Walden's Ridge is underlaid with veins of coal, and iron ore is plentiful, especially in the foot hills. The coal and iron are successfully mined in many places on the eastern slope; on the western they are nearly untouched for the want of transportation. I find that the impression prevails that the minerals of the Cumberlands are largely controlled by land agents and speculators. This is only true as applied to a very small part of the whole, not more than 1 per cent. The mineral ownership remains with the lands almost entirely.

The prevailing winds on Walden's Ridge are from the southwest; northers and northeasters are of rare occurrence. One old lady who had resided there for forty years, in answer to my query upon this subject, said: "Nine days out of ten, the year round, I can smell Alabama in the air." This was the usual testimony of the residents. Winds of great velocity never occur there. In summer there is always an evening breeze, commencing at 4 to 6 o'clock, and continuing until after sunrise the next morning. In times of rain, clouds hang low over the ridge occasionally, but they never have fogs there.