Veal is best from calves not less than four nor more than six weeks old. If younger it is unfit for food, and if older the mother cow does not furnish enough food, and it is apt to fall away; besides, the change to grass diet changes the character of the flesh, it becoming darker and less juicy. The meat should be clear and firm, and the fat white. If dark and thin, with tissues hanging loosely about the bone, it is not good. Veal will not keep so long as an older meat, especially in hot or damp weather, and when going the fat is soft and moist, the meat flabby and spotted, and inclined to be porous like a sponge. The hind-quarter is the choicest joint. It is usually divided into two parts, called the "loin" and the "leg." When the leg is large, it is divided into two joints, and the thin end is called the "kidney end," and the other the "thick end." From the leg is cut the "fillet" and "veal cutlets." The '"knuckle of veal" is the part left after the "fillets" and " cutlets" are removed. Many prefer the "breast of veal " for roasting, stewing, pies, etc. It may be boned so as to roll, or a large hole may be cut in it to make room for the stuffing. The neck of veal is used for stewing, fricassee, pies, etc. Veal chops are best for frying; cutlets are more apt to be tough. Veal should be avoided in summer. Though veal and iamb contain less nutrition, in proportion to their weight, than beef and mutton, they are often preferred to these latter meats on account of the delicacy of their texture and flavor.
Sweet-breads, if properly cooked, make one of the most delicate dishes that can be put upon the table; but some care must be taken in selecting them, as there are two kinds, and it is only one kind that is very good. That one is found in the throat of the calf, and when fresh and in perfection it is plump, white and fat. The other, which does very well for croquettes, or any dish where it may be chopped, lies below the diaphragm, and is really the pancreas. However the sweet-breads may be cooked, they should be always first soaked for three hours in cold water, which should be two or three times changed; then they should be put into boiling water for half an hour or longer, if that does not make them firm; then they may be dried in a towel, and pressed flat by putting them between two pans or boards, with a pressing-iron or other weight on top.