These are great delicacies. There are two in a calf, one from neck called "throat sweet-bread," the other from near the heart called "heart sweet-bread." The latter is most delicate. Select the largest. The color should be clear and a shade darker than the fat. Before cooking let the sweet-breads lie for half an hour in luke-warm water, then throw into boiling water to blanch and harden, and then into cold water to cool; after which draw off the outer casing, remove the little pipes, and cut into thin slices. Sweetbreads do not keep well, and should be fresh, and must be kept in a cold, dry place. They should be thoroughly cooked. In lard-iDg sweet-bread, take deep, long stitches, or they will break out.
To broil, prepare as above, spread plenty of butter over them, and broil on a gridiron over hot coals, turning often.
To fricassee, cut up the remnant of a cooked sweet-bread in small pieces, prepare a gravy by melting two table-spoons butter and stirring in a table-spoon flour, and adding a tea-cup of soup stock or water; lay pieces of sweet-bread in pan with gravy, season with pepper and salt, and boil up once. Garnish -with sliced lemon or pieces of fried bread. If sweet-breads are fresh, cut into thin slices, let simmer slowly in the gravy for three-quarters of an hour, and add a well-beaten egg, two table-spoons cream, and a spoonful chopped parsley; stir all together for a few minutes, and serve immediately.
To fry, parboil five minutes, wipe dry, lard with narrow strips of salt fat pork with a larding-needle, put a very little butter or lard into a frying-pan, lay in the sweet-breads when it is hot, and fry to a crisp brown, turning often. Or, slice thin, sprinkle over grated nutmeg and chopped parsley, dip into a batter made of one cup milk, one egg, one cup of flour, a pinch of salt, and a half teaspoon baking-powder, and fry like fritters.
To roast, parboil large ones, and, when cold, lard with salt pork as above. Roast brown in a moderate oven, basting often with butter and water. Serve with white sauce or tomato sauce poured over them. For sweet-breads with green pease, lard five sweet-breads with strips of salt pork (project evenly about half an inch on the upper side), put on the fire with a half pint water, and let stew slowly for half an hour, take out and put in a small dripping-pan with a little butter and a sprinkle of flour; brown slightly, add half a gill of mingled milk and water, and season with pepper; heat a half pint of cream, and stir it in the gravy in the pan. Have pease ready boiled and seasoned, place the sweet-breads in the center of the dish, pour the gravy over them, and put pease around them.