Fig. I. The edge wire fitted flatly and fixed in position

Fig. I. The edge wire fitted flatly and fixed in position

Fig. 2. For a shape rolled off the face the edge wire must be drawn in

Fig. 2. For a shape rolled off the face the edge wire must be drawn in

Fig. 3. Showing the process of fixing the edge wire to the legs

Fig. 3. Showing the process of fixing the edge wire to the " legs"

Fig. 4. Fix supporting wire to back leg by twisting it round once, but tie it to the other wires

Fig. 4. Fix supporting wire to back "leg" by twisting it round once, but tie it to the other wires

Fig. 5. A piece of wire, 18 inches long, bent into a dome shape

Fig. 5. A piece of wire, 18 inches long, bent into a dome shape

Fig. 6. One end of the wire is attached to the back of the circle of wire.

Fig. 6. One end of the wire is attached to the back of the circle of wire.

Fig. 7. The remaining pieces of wire are placed from side to side

Fig. 7. The remaining pieces of wire are placed from side to side, with a supporting wire in the centre drooping the " legs," or supports, and drawing in the edge wire (thus making it smaller), but in this manipulation individual discretion must be used.

This process of drawing in the edge wire also applies to a shape which is rolled off the face. (See Fig. 2.)

It is only when a waved or dented-in shape is required that fulness is permissible in the edge wire.

The pattern hat, which is a mushroom shape, requires an edge wire 48 inches long. Nip off 49 1/2 inches of wire. The 1 1/2 extra inches are allowed for the lapping over and fastening. Make into a circle measuring 48 inches when finished.

In the last lesson the " legs " of the wire shape were left bent up to their respective measurements. Now proceed to fix on the edge wire.

Commence working from the back, and place the back or join of the edge wire on the hindermost leg of the brim, which is, or should be, exactly in the centre-back.

Continue placing the edge wire inside the bends, at equal distances all round, as illustrated in Fig. 3.

Commence from the back, and twist the small bent pieces at the end of the legs over the edge wire, as illustrated in Fig. 3. Pinch into small knots very tightly, and cut off the free end of the wire.

The brim now requires two wire supports to ensure firmness. Cut a length of wire slightly shorter than the edge wire.

Take one end and fix it nearly half-way down the back " leg" of brim, which is exactly in the centre-back. Fix on by twisting it once round the leg, as illustrated in Fig. 4.

Fix the support wire on to the next leg, not by twisting it over, as in the first instance, but tie it on with cotton as shown in Fig. 4.

Repeat this process all round the brim.

A second support wire is fixed in exactly the same manner, only 1 inch or 1 1/2 inches closer to the head.

The brim is now complete.

The next important step is the making of the crown. For the pattern shape a dome crown is the most suitable.

Nip off a piece of wire 30 inches long, allowing 1 1/2 inches for lapping over and fastening. Make into a circle measuring 28 1/2 inches when finished.

Nip off eight pieces of wire each 18 inches long, and bend up 1 1/2 inches at each end. Bend the 15 inches into a dome shape. (See Fig. 5.)

Bend the remaining seven pieces in the same manner.

Mark the back, front, and sides of the 28 1/2 inch circle by means of dents or notches.

Fix on one end of one of the eight pieces of bent wire, as illustrated in Fig. 5, on the back of circle, and twist over to fasten as in Fig, 6.

Bring the other end of wire over to the front and fasten as at the back.

Repeat the process with the remaining seven pieces, placing them from side to side, side fronts to side backs, and so on. Then nip off the free ends of the wires, and tie with cotton at the top. (See Fig. 7.)

The dome now requires a support in the centre for strengthening purposes.

Nip off a piece of wire slightly shorter than the head wire, and commence fixing on from the back as directed for the brim supporting wire. (See Fig. 7.)

Proceed to fix the support round dome by tying with cotton. Fix the other end on the back " leg " of crown close to the other twist.

Fig. 7 shows the crown finished.

The crown is usually sewn on after it has been covered separately with straw or other selected material. This process will be fully described in subsequent articles.

To be continued.