Examiner in Dressmaking, Tailoring, French Pattern Modelling, Plain Needlework and Millinery, of the

Teachers in Training at the University College of South Wales and Monmouthshere, Cardiff, the London

Techincal Examination Center, etc. Author of "Up-to-DateDresscutting and Drafting," also "The Practical Work of Dressmaking and Tailoring."

Stitching the Yoke-how to Make a French Seam-to Cut the Pattern for the Basque-attaching the Basque to the Shirt - The " Stand and Fall " Collar - The Sleeves

If the front of the yoke has had to be altered in fitting, fold it together at the centre-back - wrong side out - and place it on the table with the side which has been altered underneath, and turn over the upper side to correspond, making the edges perfectly even. Tack the yoke on to the fronts again, then machine-stitch it on, near the edge, across the back, and along the slanting line of the fronts.

N.B. - It is easier to do this stitching and to line the yoke before the under-arm seams are joined together.

Lining The Yoke

Place the shirt, wrong side uppermost, on the table, and place the piece which was cut for the lining smoothly over the yoke; pin, and then tack it along the centre, turn in the raw edge along the back and the two slanting lines of the fronts; pin, and then tack it. Tack the two pieces together round the neck and at the armholes. Fell down the back and slanting lines neatly, without taking the stitches through to the right side. Press it on the wrong side, and then join the under-arm seams together. If the material is thin, it is better to join them by making a "French seam."

To do this, tack the seams together on the right side, and run or machine-stitch them down, about a quarter of an inch beyond the corrected line for the under-arm seam. Cut the turning off close to the row of running or stitching, then turn the material right over to the wrong side, and tack down the folded edge. Machine-stitch the seam again on the wrong side, by the corrected line.

If the material is thick, the seams must be stitched on the wrong side - by the corrected line - the turnings cut off neatly at the edge, pressed open, and overcast.

Cut two strips of the material selvedgewise, about two inches wide and the length of the waist plus the width of the box-pleat and a turning at each end. Turn down about half an inch of each edge, tack and press them. Pin and then tack one strip firmly in position round the waist, on the right side of the shirt.

How to Cut a Pattern for the Basque

To cut a pattern for the basque, place a piece of smooth paper on the table and arrange the pieces of the bodice pattern on it.

Place the front down the straight edge, and pin the basque of it to the paper; next place the side-front with the edges of the two pieces meeting from the waist to the bottom of the basque, and pin it to the paper; then the "side-piece" next the "side-front" in the same way, then the "side-body," and then the back.

Diagram 1. To cut out the basque, lay the pieces of the bodice pattern as here shown

Diagram 1. To cut out the basque, lay the pieces of the bodice pattern as here shown

When all the pieces have been firmly pinned to the paper in this position, take a tracing-wheel and mark through all the pieces along the waist line of each, making one continuous curved line; from it measure, and mark at intervals on the pattern, three or four inches for the depth of the basque; then wheel a second curved line through these marks, extending an inch beyond the pattern of the back.

This is to give a little extra spring at the bottom of the basque.

With a square, draw a sloping line to connect the curves at the back.

Remove the bodice pattern and cut out the pattern of the basque through the wheel marks and down the sloping line at the back. Place the material, folded double, on the table, and put the pattern of the basque on it in the position shown in the diagram - that is, with the front straight down the selvedge. Cut out the basque from the double material, allowing about half an inch for turnings all round. Tack, and then stitch the two pieces together up the back, and press the seams open. Make a narrow hem down the fronts and round the bottom of the basque, and press it; or, if preferred, bind it with lute ribbon or Prussian binding.

N.B. - If the material is at all thick, the latter method is the best, as it is less clumsy under the skirt.

Pin the lower edge of the band that is on the shirt to the basque, place the seam of the basque exactly on a line with the centre of the back of the shirt, and tack the band on

Dress firmly all round, and then machine-stitch it close to the edge, and machine-stitch the band to the shirt close to the other edge. Tack in the second strip to line the band, turn it in, tack, and then hem it along each side, turn in the ends to "face," and sew them up.

Diagram 2. The  Stand and Fall collar

Diagram 2. The "Stand and Fall" collar

The Collar for the Shirt

The finished sketch on page 1064 shows the shirt with a collar of the same material. This can either be made and sewn on to the shirt, or the shirt can be made with a narrow neck-band and a detachable collar of the material.

For the former, a "stand and fall" collar, cut two strips of the material on the straight (selvedgewise), two or more inches wide, plus turnings, and about one and a half inches longer (plus turnings) than the neck measurement, to allow for the ends of the band to overlap in front. This is for the "stand." For the "fall," cut a strip the length of the neck measurement, and twice the width the collar is to be when finished (plus half an inch for turnings), fold it in half lengthwise, wrong side out, stitch down each end, and turn it right side out - be careful to make the corners sharp and exactly to correspond - tack, press, and then stitch round the two ends and along the top, about a quarter of an inch from the edge.

N.B. - It is better to press the edges before stitching, as pressing gives a flat and sharp edge, and the stitching can be done more evenly.

Find the centre of the "fall," and place a pin there, near the raw edge.

Find the centre of one piece of the "stand," and pin the centre of the "fall" to it, placing the "fall" downwards on to the right side of it, the raw edges of the "stand" and "fall" together. Tack them together in this position, and then tack the second piece of the "stand" evenly over the "fall," the right side inside. Slope off the top of the "stand" about half an inch at each end, when it should appear as shown in Diagram 2. Tack, and then machine-stitch the "stand" along the top and down the two ends, leaving only narrow turnings, then turn the "stand" right side out, and tack it all round near the stitched edge. Turn in the bottom edges to face each other, and tack the turning all round. Find the centre of the "stand" (the side that is on the wrong side of the "fall"), and pin it to the centre-back of the neck of the shirt on the right side; pin and tack the "stand" in position round the neck, and fell it on (on the right side). Cut away any superfluous turnings round the neck, tack down and fell the inside of the "stand" to the shirt.

The Sleeves

The sleeves must next be cut out and made. A shirt-sleeve should be cut in one piece, so fold the material over to the width required for the top, or widest part of the sleeve, and place the pattern on it as shown in Diagram 3. Measure and mark on the pattern the depth the cuff is to be mad which, in the finished sketch, is three inch' and draw a chalk line across the pattern, continuing it to the fold of the material, as shown in the diagram. Outline the inside seam with chalk, from the top to the chalk line for the cuff, and also round the top of the pattern.

Diagram 3

Diagram 3. A shirt-sleeve is cut in one piece. Place the pattern on folded material. A indicates where to cut the material

Remove the pattern and complete the chalk line (for the cuff) on the material.

Cut out the sleeve in the double material, allowing half an inch for turnings beyond the three chalk lines.

Unfold the sleeve and place the one piece of the pattern on it in the position shown in Diagram 4, and mark round the curve at the top of the under-arm on the material with chalk, continuing the curve to the top of the sleeve, as shown in the diagram. Rem the pattern and cut out the curve, allowing half an inch beyond the chalk line for turnings.

Diagram 4. Showing the under arm pattern placed on sleeve. A indicates the cutting line

Diagram 4. Showing the under-arm pattern placed on sleeve. A indicates the cutting line

The shirt-sleeve should now appear as in Diagram 5. Place the remaining piece

Dress of material open on the table, right side uppermost, and place the shirt-sleeve on it, wrong side uppermost; the two right sides must "face," and the corresponding stripes must lie exactly one over the other. Pin the sleeve to the material in this position, and cut out the second sleeve.

For the cuffs, cut two strips of the material on the straight, selvedgewise, twice the depth of the cuff, plus half an inch on each side for turnings, and one and a half inches longer than the size of the wrist of the person for whom it is being made, plus half an inch at each end for turnings.

Diagram 5. The sleeve as it should appear when cut out

Diagram 5. The sleeve as it should appear when cut out

E.G. - If the wrist measure is six inches, the material must be cut eight and a half inches long, to allow the cuff to overlap, and for the turnings; and if the cuff is to be three inches deep when finished, the material must be cut seven inches wide, as it is folded in half to form the outside and the lining of the cuff. The stripes on the two pieces for the cuffs must exactly correspond.

N.B. - If the cuffs are for a cotton shirt they must be interlined with linen to stiffen them. For this purpose linen of a loose make should be chosen.

The shirt concluded in next lesson