Examiner in Dressmaking, Tailoring, French Pattern Modelling, Plain Needlework and Millinery of the Teachers in Training at the University College of South Wales and Monmouthshire, Cardiff the London Technical Examination Centre, etc. Author of " Up-to-date Dresscutting and Drafting," also" The Practical Work of Dressmaking and Tailoring."
To continue the sleeves, put one of the larger pieces of the material on the table, right side uppermost, and on it one of the under-arm pieces, wrong side uppermost (the right sides "facing"). Pin them together, perfectly flat, as they he on the table, in the position illustrated in Diagram I - i.e., with the edges of the two pieces level from the top to the bend of the arm, and with the under piece projecting from the bend of the arm to the wrist.
Diagram 1. The two pieces of the sleeve, the right sides " facing"
The inner seam of the sleeve must always be fixed first. Commence at the bend of the arm, and, still keeping it flat on the table, pin the seam upwards to the top; then fold the piece that projects, over, to meet the seam of the under-arm. Pin and tack this seam together, as shown in Diagram 2.
Diagram 2. The inner seam of the sleeve must be pinned and tacked together
Pin the back seam from the wrist up to the elbow, then fold the piece that projects, over, to meet the back of the under-arm piece, and, still keeping it flat on the table, pin the seam from the elbow up to the top, as shown in Diagram 3.
N.B. - It is most important that these instructions for fixing the seams of the sleeves, and for keeping them flat on the table the whole time, should be carefully followed; if not, and the sleeves are fixed together in the hand, the sleeve will not set, but will twist when on the arm.
Diagram 3. Pin the back seam from wrist to elbow, and, still keeping sleeve flat on table, pin the seam from elbow to the top
The tacking should be neatly done along the line of " tailor tacking," so that, when the short threads have been taken out, the tacking will take its place as a guide for machine stitching the seams. Remove the threads, and stitch the seams as close as possible to the tacking. Notch the turnings well, especially at the bend of the arm at the inner seam; and, round the elbow on the outer seam, notch away the superfluous material (so as to avoid marking the sleeve on the right side when the seams have been pressed). Slip the sleeve (wrong side out) on to a sleeve-board, damp the seams, and press them open. When the seams of the second sleeve have been done, place the linings on the table, pin and tack the seams in the same way as in the material, and as shown in the diagrams. Machine stitch these seams just inside the line of "tailor tacking," so that the linings may be a trifle smaller than the material.
N.B. - This is necessary, or when the sleeve is lined and turned right side out, the lining will "set full." Notch and press the seams of the lining open, but do not damp them. Next cut a strip of French canvas (perfectly on the cross) about 3 1/2 inches deep and long enough to go round the bottom of the sleeve.
N.B. - If there is not sufficient canvas left over from the coat to cut the crossway strip in one piece, it can be joined, according
Dress to the instructions given on page 642, Part 5.
Tack the canvas all round the bottom of the sleeve, with the raw edge slightly below the "tailor-tacked" line (which marks the place the sleeve is to be turned up), so that when it is turned up there will be a small turning of canvas inside, which will give a better edge to the bottom of the sleeve than if the raw edge of the canvas is round the bottom.
The canvas must be stretched round the sleeve tightly - a tailor would call it put in "short" - or, when the sleeve is turned right side out, the canvas will "set full' inside and spoil the appearance of the sleeve. Join the canvas round by placing one edge flat over the other, and herring-boning it down. Sew the canvas to the turnings of the seams of the sleeve, but be careful not to take the stitches through to the right side.
Turn up the bottom of the sleeve along the "tailor-tacked" line, tack it firmly all round near the edge of the sleeve, and herringbone the raw edge (with rather long stitches) to the canvas.
Slip the sleeve - still wrong side out - over the sleeve-board, damp and press it well round the bottom, but be careful not to stretch it round the edge. Turn the lining right side out, and slip it over the wrong side of the sleeve. The seams of the lining and of the material must exactly correspond, and he one over the other.
Tack the lining to the sleeve down the seams and round the top, about five inches below it. Turn in the raw edge, and tack it neatly round the bottom, just to cover the herringbone stitches which fasten down the raw edge of the "facing." Fell the lining neatly down with silk to match, again slip the sleeve over the narrow end of the sleeve-board, press round the fining - but do not damp it - then turn the sleeve right side out. Put on the coat and one sleeve, and mark the position on the arm-hole for the inside seam with chalk or a pin.
Putting in the Sleeve
Takeoff the coat, put the armholes together, and mark the position for the seam of the other sleeve, to correspond. Turn back the lining from the top of the sleeve (to be out of the way), and carefully tack in the sleeves, tacking in the cloth but not the sleeve lining. The lining of the coat must, however, be tacked in with it. Stitch them in by hand with strong waxed silk - the sleeve being held next the worker, as, in working, the side held uppermost is sure to be slightly " eased," and it would spoil the appearance of the coat if that were "eased." The sleeve must always be put in plain, without any fulness, all round the under arm, and if there is any fulness, it must be across the top of the sleeve. Cut off any superfluous turnings there may be round the under arm, but do not cut off any round the top of the sleeve, as it sets better if there is a wide turning there. Bring the lining up right over the seam, round the armhole, turn in the raw edge, and pin it over the turnings, just beyond the stitching. Be careful to put the seam of the lining exactly over that of the sleeve, and to put it in plain all round the under arm, and to arrange any fulness there may be across the top, to correspond with that of the sleeve. Fell the lining all round the arm-hole with fine silk' to match. (N.B. - Tailors use "waxed" skein silk for felling in the linings, and other work done by hand.)
To wax the silk, untwist the skein and put one end over a hook in the wall, or get a second person to hold it, and stretch it well; then, still stretching it out to its full extent, rub it well, backwards and forwards, along the strands, with a piece of beeswax, and then, with a small cutting of cloth, continue rubbing until the strands of silk have become perfectly straight, and the wax that is on the silk has been rubbed smoothly into it. This adds considerably to the strength of the silk, and makes it very pleasant to work with - it is so smooth, and does not twist or knot.
Twist treated in the same way is much stronger for sewing on buttons, stitching in sleeves, etc. After the skein of silk has been waxed, cut it through and loosely plait the strands to keep it neat.
Next, make the cuffs for the sleeves, as shown in the sketch (page 758, Part 6.)
Cut two pieces of French canvas for each sleeve - on the straight, selvedge-wise - about three inches deep and long enough to go round the bottom of the sleeve. Tack the two pieces together (one over the other), and "pad" the double canvas. This padding can be worked with cotton and with long stitches, as it is only required to give firmness and to keep the two pieces together - not to make them roll.
Place the padded canvas on a sleeve-board, damp and press it flat, keeping the iron on it until the moisture has all dried up.
Diagram 4. Double canvas padded for cuff
Measure, mark, and cut a slope at each end, as shown in Diagram 4, and if there is any unevenness on either edge of the canvas, draw a straight line and cut it off.
This must be very carefully done, as the canvas must have no turnings. It is cut the net size of the cuff, and the material will be turned over the raw edges. To be continued.