Materials Required-Drafting The Skirt

The little tailor-made costume designed for Every Woman's Encyclopaedia (see finished sketch) would look smart made in white serge, with black velvet or satin facings and buttons, and be very useful for chilly days in summer. If purchased from a good tailor, it would cost at least four or five guineas, whereas the home worker, following the instructions given in these lessons, will be able to make it at a cost of less than a guinea and a half, which sum allows for a serge at 3s. 6d. per yard, and a tailor's satin lining for the coat.

If it is desired to line the skirt, an extra 10s. must be allowed for a silk lining, as five yards of single-width silk would be required, or an extra 2s. 6d. must be allowed for a cotton lining. An exceedingly nice and uncommon one, which is light in weight, soft, and which does not crease (as most cotton linings do), is a broche, and although 40 inches wide, the price is only 11 3/4d. per yard. It looks almost like satin, and can be had in black, white, and colours. Two and a half yards of this would be quite sufficient to line the skirt shown in the sketch, which measures 41 inches in length, and is 2 1/4 yards round the bottom. Three yards of satin should be sufficient for the lining of the coat-one yard of white French canvas, and half a yard of white linen will be required for interlining, three-quarters of a yard of black velvet, or satin, for the "facings " and buttons.

The other requisites are a quarter-ounce reel of machine silk for stitching, a small reel of fine silk to match the coat lining for felling it in, buttonhole twist and thread, beeswax, tacking cotton, black sewing silk, button moulds of three sizes (for making the buttons for the coat and skirt), belting, hooks and eyes, and placket fasteners for the skirt. If a braid is desired round the bottom of it, two and a half yards will be necessary. All these items are included in the estimate quoted above. It is always better to cut out the skirt of a costume before the coat, as in cutting the gores there are frequently pieces of material left which can be utilised for sleeves, pockets, etc.

There is no up and down in serge, so the gores can be cut both ways, but as there is a right and a wrong side to it, and as in this skirt the two halves of the front are different, care must be taken to cut the larger piece for the right half, and the smaller for the left half of the front.

As the serge is white, and care must be taken not to soil it, it will be better for the amateur to draft a paper pattern from which to cut out her skirt. Large sheets of brown paper can be purchased for the purpose at 9 1/2d. per quire (second quality); it is called "double imperial," and measures 45 by 29 inches.

To draft the back gore (Diagram 1), unfold a sheet of the paper and place it on the table; measure along the edge 41 inches; make a mark; from it measure 1 1/2 inches, and make another mark; from this second mark draw a line 7 1/2 inches long across the paper, and from the end of this line draw a "curve for waist" to within an inch of the first mark on the edge of the paper; from the end of the "curve for waist" draw a

Sketch of double breasted coat and skirt when finished

Sketch of double-breasted coat and skirt when finished

17I8 line about 7 inches long, curving very gradually to the edge of the paper, as shown in the diagram.

Measure across the paper, at the end, 28 inches, make a mark, and draw with

Diagram I. Drafting the back gore of skirt two squares a long line from the end of the curve for waist to the mark.

Diagram I. Drafting the back gore of skirt two squares a long line from the end of the " curve for waist " to the mark.

The "Centre-back Seam"

This line is for the "centre-back seam," and the squares should be placed together in the position illustrated on page 73, Vol. I. Take a tape measure and measure on this line 41 inches, make a mark across it, and continue to measure and mark (from the " curve for waist") this length at intervals as far as the front edge of the paper. Draw a curving line through these marks for the bottom of the gore.

N.B.-The reason the measure taken across the paper is 28 inches is to obtain the correct width (27 inches) for the bottom of the gore. If the mark across the paper were made at 27 inches, the curved line (being drawn above it) would only measure 26 inches.

Cut out the pattern on the chalk lines, and on it mark the words and measurements which are given on the diagram.

To draft the left half of " front" (Diagram 2), measure along the edge of the paper 41 inches; make a mark; from it measure 1 1/4 inches and make another mark, from this second mark draw a line 6 inches long across the paper, and from the end of this line draw the " curve for waist " to the first mark on the edge of the paper.

Diagram 2. The left half of front

Diagram 2. The left half of front

Measure across the paper at the end 14 inches, make a mark, and draw with the squares a long line from the end of the "curve for waist" to the mark.

N.B.-This line is for the "side seam" of the left-front.

The "Side Seam-take a tape measure, and measure on this line, for the "siae seam," 41 inches, make a mark across it, and continue to measure and mark (from the " curve for waist ") this length at intervals as far as the front edge of the paper.

Draw a curving line through these marks for the bottom of the left half of the front. From the top of the " side seam " measure ,on the " curve for waist " half an inch, make a mark, and from it draw a line about 7 inches long, curving very gradually to the " side seam," as shown on the diagram.

Cut out the pattern on the chalk lines, and on it mark the words and measurements which are given on the diagram.

For the right half of the " front," place

Diagram 3. This clearly indicates how to draft the right front of skirt a sheet of paper on the table

Diagram 3. This clearly indicates how to draft the right front of skirt a sheet of paper on the table; measure 5 inches from the edge, and draw a line parallel to it 42 inches long; crease down on this line, and fold the 5 inches under to be out of the way. Place the cut-out pattern of the left half of the front on the paper, with the edge of the centre-front along the fold. Outline the pattern carefully (with a fine chalk or pencil), remove the pattern, and cut out the right half exactly on the lines across the fold at the " curve for waist," and at the bottom, and then the " side seam." Turn the paper over, the fold uppermost, and measure from the fold along the " curve for waist " 2 inches, and make a mark. Open out the fold flat, and with the squares draw a slanting line from the mark to the edge of the paper at the bottom. It should now appear as in Diagram 3. Cut along this slanting line. This gives the edge of the right half of the front, and completes the pattern for the skirt.

The fold marks the "centre-front." Mark on the pattern the words and measurements that are given on the diagram. To be continued.