For the pattern for the cuffs, cut a strip of paper 23 inches long and 9 1/2 inches wide, and fold it in half.
For the rounded curve at the top of the cuff, measure two inches down the end of the folded paper, make a mark, and from it draw a line curving gradually outwards to the top of the fold; cut on this line through the double paper.
For the hollow curve at the bottom of the cuff, measure two inches up the fold, make a mark, from it draw a line curving gradually to the lower end of the folded paper; cut on this line through the double paper. For the correct size for the bottom of the cuff measure from the fold, and on the lower curve, 10 1/2 inches (half the cuff measure, plus half an inch for turnings at each end), make a mark, and from it draw a line with the square to touch the end of the top curve; cut on this line through the double paper.
This gives the pattern for the cuff, including half-inch turnings all round. Unfold the paper, and it should appear as in Diagram 1.
Diagram I. The pattern of cuff as it should appear ready for cutting out
Place the pattern of the piece for the sleeve along the selvedge of the material, so that it may be joined to the sleeve, " selvedge " to " selvedge," cut it out by the paper pattern, and cut the piece for the second sleeve in the same way.
Place the pattern for the sleeve band on the material selvedgewise, and cut it out by the pattern; and the second in the same way.
Place the pattern for the cuff on the material with the two ends of the lower curve touching the selvedge, as shown in Diagram 2, cut it out by the pattern, and cut the second cuff in the same way.
N.B.-The reason these cuffs must be cut along the selvedge is that the grain of the material in these may match that in the sleeves.
The lining can be cut exactly the same size and shape as the material, and from the wrap which has just been cut out.
To Cut a Wrap in Double-width Material
If the wrap is to be made of double-width material, it can be cut without a seam down
Diagram 2. Place the pattern for cuff on the material with the two ends touching the selvedge the centre-back, by placing the material folded double on the table, with the centre-front and the centre - back of the bodice pattern down the fold, instead of down the selvedge. The fold down the centre-front will, of course, have to be cut open. The rest of the cutting-out can be done from the instructions given in the last lesson for single-width material.
The wrap, whether of single or double-width material, should have an interlining of soft book muslin. This should be cut exactly the same size and shape as the material.
N.B.-Domet is an interlining very little known to amateurs, but it is a good deal used in business houses. It is made in black and in white, and is a loosely woven woollen material. It can be had at most draper's, and at all tailor's trimming shops, and costs about 7d. or 8d. a yard.
For the wrap made of single-width material, the centre-back seam must next be pinned, tacked, machine-stitched, and pressed open. The pinning and tacking must be done with the material lying flat on the table, not with the material held over the hand.
If there are selvedges on the turnings of the back seam, these should be well " snipped " at frequent intervals, in a slanting direction, before the seam is pressed open.
N.B.-The edge of the selvedge is frequently 'rather tight, and if it is not " snipped," it will spoil the set of the seam when it has been pressed open.
Next join on the pieces to lengthen the sleeves, both of the material and of the lining,
Dre8S pin, tack, and machine-stitch them; snip, and press open the seams.
Put the lining aside until the wrap has been trimmed.
The interlining must next be put in. This must be most carefully done, or it will spoil the " hang " of the wrap. Place the material flat on the table, wrong side uppermost, and the interlining smoothly over it. It must on no account be put in " tight"; if anything, it should be slightly " eased." Tack it securely to the material all over, but not too near the under-arm seam and the seam of the sleeve-tack it to within about three inches from the edge. Turn back the interlining all along the edge, and stick in a few pins to keep it out of the way.
Pin, and then tack the under-arm seams and the seam of the sleeves-in the material only-exactly on the line of " tailor tacking," and with the material lying flat on the table. Remove the pins and the short threads, and machine-stitch the seams. Notch the edges at frequent intervals round the curves, and press the seams open, then unpin the interlining which was turned back, and bring it flat over the seam, one edge over the other.
N.B.-The joins in the interlining must not be made like ordinary seams; the edges must be lapped one over the other, and tacked together flat in that position.
The reason that it is better to interline the wrap before the under-arm seams are joined up is because it is so much easier to do it correctly whilst the wrap can still be spread out flat on the table.
The wrap is now ready for the design for the trimming to be traced oh it.
The design given in this lesson (Diagram 1) is the one illustrated in the finished sketch, page 1719, Vol. 3. It is very simple, but for this style of trimming this is essential. The pattern should be a running one, for if the lines were crossed, the work would be too clumsy, and as the satin piping is rather thick, a close pattern is not desirable; whereas, for ordinary braiding, this pattern would be far too simple.
To Prepare the Design for Tracing on to the " Wrap "
The design for half the neck and a short piece of the straight pattern, also one corner, must be enlarged to about 3 inches in width,
Diagram 3. Showing a corner of the tracing design more or less as desired; then take a piece of tracing paper, place it over the full size design of the curved piece for the half neck and the straight piece, and trace it carefully with a pencil. Move the tracing paper and repeat the tracing of the straight design, as often as is necessary, to obtain the required length for the front of the wrap, and add the design for the corner.
Be careful to make the pattern meet and match exactly each time the paper is moved.
N.B.-It is not necessary to trace more than this amount, as the same piece can be used again in tracing the design on to the second side of the wrap, and round the bottom of it.
As the tracing paper will probably not be long enough for the length of the wrap, it can be cut and sewn together. Place something soft on the table-an ironing blanket will do excellently-and lay the traced strip over it.
Take a steel pin'or a push pin (illustrated on page 72, Part 1), and prick through the lines of the design rather closely-about twelve pricks to the inch. When all the pricking is done, remove the paper from the blanket.
N.B.-Large sheets of thick tracing paper-can be had, 40 inches by 30 inches, for 2 1/2d. or 3d. per sheet.
The design is now ready to be marked on to the material. Instructions for doing this will be given in the next lesson.
To be continued.
Diagram 4. Design for half the neck and a short portion of the straight pattern