Examiner in Dressmaking, Tailoring, French Pattern Modelling, Millinery, and Plain Needlework of the Teachers in Training at the University College of South Wales and Monmouthshire, Cardiff', the London Technical Examination Centre, etc. Author of " Up-to-date Dresscutting and Drafting," also" The Practical Work of Dressmaking and Tailoring."
Having removed the tacking from the neck to the waist, it will be found there is a flat, gradually sloping pleat to be dealt with. This should be tacked down on the right side, to keep it in place, until the lining has been put into the coat. Then, as directed in the ninth lesson, pin, tack, and machine-stitch the shoulder and under-arm seams of the fronts to the back of the coat - the cloth only - carefully matching the waist lines, and then notching in the turnings.
The French canvas must not be cut off at the shoulders, but turned back out of the way.
Stretch the front shoulders (to prevent creases down the front) when joining them to the back, and be careful to make the
"lapped seams " of the front and back exactly meet.
Well notch the turnings of the underarm seams, damp them, and press them open. As the shoulder seams are to be "lapped," they must not be opened, but pressed double, the turnings towards the front; tack the turnings down (right through from the right side) and stitch them the same width as the other "lapped" seams. The canvas at the shoulders must now be brought up over the seam, and tacked down to the turning (not through to the right side of the coat), but before this is done, it must be slit down in two places, several inches in length, as shown in Diagram I.
N.B. - These slits are made to prevent any strain, and to allow the cloth to set smoothly over the shoulders.
Make a chalk mark at the centre on the outer edge of the "stand" of the collar, turn up the " fall," and place this mark at the neck of the coat, exactly on the back seam, pin half the collar in position on to the coat. Place a pin across under the revers, to show the exact point the collar is to reach, and also the space, or "break," between the collar and the revers.
Diagram I. The canvas must be brought up over the seam, and slit down in two places
Remove the coat, and draw a chalk line on it round the half-collar which has been pinned on, and exactly at the edge of it, and make a chalk mark across under the revers exactly where the pin was put in to mark the break.
Take out all the pins, fold the coat in half, and pin the neck together; correct the line just made round the half of the collar, and tailor tack over it through to the other side. Cut through the stitches of the tailor tacking, and pin on the collar, commencing at the centre-back, and following the line of tailor tacking all round - the break on each side must exactly match. Tack the collar on carefully and firmly, slightly easing it on to the coat across the shoulder seams.
Fell it on very neatly with silk, on the right side of the coat.
Cut off all superfluous turnings round the neck, graduating them so as to avoid any sudden thickness. The turnings at the top of the revers where it rests on the collar must also be cut away as much as possible, then herringbone all the raw edges down on to the collar. These stitches need not be small, but they must be regular, so that the turnings may lie as flat as possible under the facing of the collar.