Forehead wrinkles require two move-ments, since "frowning" wrinkles (see diagram, b) are perpendicular, and those on the broad of the forehead are horizontal (a). (a) With two fingers of each hand, smeared at the tips with the chosen cream, work firmly from the eyebrows to the hair.
(b) With two fingers work towards the temples, using effleurage with pressure.
Bagginess under the eyes (c) requires careful treatment. Massage a friction is adopted, working in small circles from the inner corner of the eye towards the temple. For the eyelid give a little effleurage in the opposite direction - from the outer to the inner corner. This is best done with the little finger of the left hand on the right eye, and vice versa.
In practice the other fingers will fall naturally on to the temple and outer corner of the eye, where they must be pressed so as to hold the skin in place during treatment of the lid.
When working on the tender skin beneath the eyes it is well to re-member the delicacy of the third finger, which will give just the right fine, light movement.
For crowsfeet use light effleurage, outward movement, before and after the circular movement. (d) Tapotement may be worked lightly, using " the cone."
Hollow cheeks can only be improved under regular and patient treatment. Follow effleurage with light pinching, in which the cheeks are picked up from the bone, and the muscles stimulated. Tapping, with a plentiful smearing of cream on "the cone" is valuable. Then the light massage a friction working outwards (e), which may be solely used for slight cases or as a preventive.
By careful massage much may be done both to prevent and to remove disfiguring facial and throat wrinkles.
For the removal of fat from the cheeks use effleurage, then knead the flesh firmly, using considerable pressure, and pinch the flesh so as to influence vigorously the muscle. Finish with effleurage. Little or no cream must be used.
Calipers are the most dreaded of all wrinkles - as they give the expression a harshness far from pleasing to behold. There are two good movements for their removal, two movements which may be used as preventives at any time - with the towel when washing, occasionally with the fingers in a spare moment or before resting, when using a cream to remove some simple ill of the complexion
The first movement treats the upper part of the caliper, near the nose. Use the four fingers, first smoothing out the line towards the ears, then feeding the skin with the circular movement. The long lines (/) are made with the lower palm of the hand. Place the fingers on the temples, and then, with a firm, slow and effective movement, work the base of the hand from the chin till it nearly meets the forefingers on the temple. The same movement is useful for toning up the skin and flesh beneath the chin which shows age by "sagging." Here use both hands at once, placing the tips of the fingers in position beneath the ears, and the two wrists meeting under the chin. Now work with firm and even strokes, and follow by circular movements all tending upward (g) to give tone, and remove scragginess, but using heavier movements if the fat is to be removed. Effleurage, pincement, and kneading are used to remove superfluous fat from chin and neck. The flesh must be picked up, rolled, and kneaded under the chin, and pressed and squeezed when it has gathered on the back of the neck.
To help give tone to the neck, and assist it to regain its former roundness, exercise by (1) throwing the head backward, (2) bending the head forward till chin reaches breast, and by (3) turning the head from side to side. Neck, chin, and shoulders quickly show the good effects of massage, though the daily treatment must occupy a little longer than treatment of the face as they are less sensitive. Vibration is of excellent service.
Discretion must be observed as to the quantity of cream used, the object of massage being to promote a natural action of the skin, when the fat glands themselves will supply a sufficient lubricant to render the skin flexible, glossy, and smooth.
A Few Notes
Before massage it is necessary to open the pores by bathing in hot water or by steaming; after, the pores need to be closed. In preventive massage, and the slight massage often sufficient for slight simple astringent, such as cold water to which has been added a few drops of toilet vinegar, or Lait Virginal, will be found sufficient; but where the pores are enlarged a better one may be found necessary. Use an astringent sparingly and seldom. Here is a simple and good one. To half a pint of elderflower-water add a tablespoonful of lemon-juice and a tablespoonful of simple tincture of benzoin. Dab on the face gently, or use a spray. This lotion whitens as well as tones the skin if only used occasionally.
A good astringent is composed of equal parts of good vinegar, simple tincture of benzoin, and infusion of red roses. Add only enough to the washing water to make it cloudy.
Use oatmeal-water after massage if the skin is at all irritated, or leave an emollient on for a while.
Warmed almond oil is useful in massaging a thin neck, but as almond oil promotes the growth of hair it must not be applied to the face, for which lamb's-wool fat, or lanoline, is better.
In face massage the movements generally tend upwards, because the wear and tear of life draw the lines downward, and to erase a line consistent movement in the opposite direction is necessary.
It is well to note that massage more readily affects fat than it promotes flesh, so that the thin woman requires to use a patience and perseverance not always agreeable to her temperament. On the other hand, an amateur can better use self-massage for the cure of thinness than for the removal of redundant flesh, because the movements in the former case are lighter and more superficial than in the latter, when the not too sympathetic hand of a professional masseuse is more effective.