Englishwomen are becoming more Continental and cosmopolitan in their habits, and it is now quite de rigueur to wear a hat or toque in conjunction with the demi-toilette when dining at hotels or restaurants.
What is known to the Parisian modiste as the "casino" toque is best made of such fabrics as tulle, chiffon, or marquisette, arranged in cloudlike fashion on to the lightest possible wire frame; the only other trimming required being an aigrette or plume.
Beautiful colour schemes can be evolved out of the various coloured tulles. For the more substantial restaurant toque elaborate embroideries, entirely covered with many coloured beads or jet, are greatly in vogue; Oriental colourings being specially favoured. A charming creation worthy of note that emanated from Paris was composed of old gold Chantilly, veiled with black Brussels net, and bound round the edge with a strip of black velvet about I1/2 in. deep in the front and about 3 in. at the back. This gave the suggestion of a jockey cap, and was finished off with an immense cerise aigrette.
Shapes made of wire are used, and can be made according to dimensions, or, if a sketch be given to a milliner, one can be made specially for the sum of Is. or Is.6d. For a tulle or chiffon toque, wire to match colour of material selected should be chosen.
The shape is covered either with several layers of tulle, to measurements given below, and covered with net or sarcenet;i1/4 yards of gold lace at about 6s. II1/2d. will be required, also the same amount of Brussels net, the usual price being Is.ii3/4d. per yard ; and a quarter of a yard of black velvet on the cross for the bind.
Uncovered wire shape over which the lace and net are draped according to one's own discretion, or with two layers of chiffon. The wire at the edge requires an additional bind of tulle or silk (this is to prevent the wires from cutting through). Our pattern shape is in black wire, made
This shape could also be covered with straw or with silk, brocade, or velvet.
Measurements of Toque Shape:
Head wire, 221/2 in.
Underbrim : Front, 2 1/2 in.; side front, 2 1/2 in.; side, 2 1/2 in.; side back, 2 1/2 in.; back, 2 1/2 in.
Underbrim edge, 35 in.
Turn-up coronet: Front, 4 1/2 in.; side front, 4 1/2 in.; side, 4 1/2 in.; side back, 4 1/2 in.; back, 41/2 in. Edge of coronet, 251/2 in. Crown nipped on to edge wire of coronet. Height of crown, I1/2 in. all round. Across top : Back to front, 6 3/4 in. ; side to side, 6f in.; side back to side front, 6 3/4 in.
Before commencing to drape the toque with the gold lace and net, cover and neaten the inside brim. For this, turn the shape upside down and place a corner of the lace to the front of toque as illustrated.
Sink the lace well into the headpiece and fit carefully all round, graduating the gatherings to the back as illustrated in stage I.